Flour, History and a Little Magic

Thessaloniki’s classic bougatsa is sweet or savory perfection

Just a few of Thessaloniki’s bougatsa shops still make their filo from scratch, but it makes all the difference. Handmade bougatsa is a crisp, meltingly tender taste of the rich culinary heritage of Asia Minor that refugees brought to Thessaloniki in the 1920s. Filippos Bantis, a third-generation confectioner, demonstrates his grandfather’s technique.

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Spicy Mussels

This seafood dish is given a twist with the addition...