Serifos’ rugged, almost austere beauty has been sculpted by the wind, the salt air and generations of human labor. While Serifos’ Hora is effortlessly elegant and full of life, efforts are being made to preserve local traditions in the sparsely populated villages that are scattered across the island’s arid interior. The historic Rakostasi café in the hamlet of Kallitsos has recently reopened, as has Halida’s traditional wood-fired bakery in Hora.

The climb to the Castle rewards early risers with sweeping views across the endless Aegean and the whitewashed houses cascading toward Livadi and the island’s port. My friend Giorgos Zafeiriou, who has lived on Serifos for many years, describes the island as “the meeting point between the rust-colored mines and the deep blue sea.”

Serifos is also an island steeped in myth. According to legend, when King Polydectes sent Perseus to slay Medusa, the hero returned to Serifos brandishing her severed head. At the sight of it, the king and his companions were turned to stone, leaving behind the island’s distinctive human-shaped rock formations. Another legend places the cave and throne of the Cyclops Polyphemus here, making Serifos one of the landscapes associated with Homer’s world.

Strolling Through Hora

In Upper Hora, make sure to visit the square in front of the Town Hall and the imposing Church of Aghios Athanasios. Sunset is the perfect time to linger here with a glass of rakomelo and a selection of local meze. 

In Lower Hora, the Folklore Museum offers an engaging introduction to Serifian life, with displays of household objects, traditional costumes, tools once used in local trades and an impressive collection of the island’s rocks and minerals. 

Equally fascinating is the Archaeological Collection of Serifos, housed in the former municipal guesthouse Perseus in Livadi. Alongside ancient artifacts, the exhibition features photographs documenting the island’s historic mining industry, offering a compelling glimpse into the past that shaped modern Serifos.

Myths and History

In the bay of Megalo Livadi, the abandoned Serifos Mines form one of Greece’s most evocative industrial heritage landscapes, where rusting relics tell the story of an industry that once transformed the island. Their centerpiece is the elegant neoclassical headquarters of the Serifos-Spiliazeza Mining Company, designed by Ernst Ziller and framed by towering palm trees. Mining began here in the late 19th century, transforming the island’s economy for decades.

Just a short walk away stands the Monument to the Heroes, commemorating the bloody miners’ uprising of 1916, a defining chapter in the island’s history and in the Greek labor movement. Next door, the Cyclops taverna, no longer run by the much-loved Maria, continues to serve excellent seafood.

Scattered around the bay, abandoned mining facilities, rusting railway tracks, ore wagons, trucks and loading bridges bear witness to the island’s once-thriving mining industry, which continued until 1964.

Beyond the loading bridge, perched high on the hillside, stands the Throne of the Cyclops, offering sweeping views across the island’s southwest coast. Visitors often wonder how the enormous carved stone blocks forming its base were ever transported to such an improbable location. The site is reached via an easy walking path beginning at Megalo Horio, near the White Tower, a fourth-century BC watchtower well worth visiting. The trail passes the Monastery of Evangelistria at Akrotiriani, before following the signposted route to the throne.

To the west survive the remains of an ancient wall, while a few meters to the north is the entrance to the Cave of the Cyclops, its doorway and steps carved directly into the rock. Discovered during mining operations in 1893, the cave descends around 15 metres and contains impressive stalactites and stalagmites, although it is now closed because of subsidence.

A similarly evocative landscape awaits in the bay of Koutalas, where another loading bridge, abandoned ore wagons and countless mine shafts dot the surrounding hillsides, their slopes stained rusty red by iron ore. Together, these neighbouring bays form one of Greece’s most important industrial heritage landscapes and deserve recognition as an open-air museum. By the time mining ended in 1964, more than seven million tonnes of iron ore – averaging 48 per cent iron content – had been extracted and exported from Serifos.

A Pilgrimage to Serifos’ Churches

On the island’s north coast stands the imposing Monastery of Taxiarches (Archangels), founded in 1572. Part fortress, part monastery, it is one of Serifos’ most impressive landmarks, housing precious religious treasures and commanding spectacular views across the Aegean.

Further uphill lies the tiny settlement of Panagia, built around its namesake 11th-century church, known locally as Xylopanagia. Renowned for its exceptional frescoes, the church is one of the island’s most significant Byzantine monuments. 

On an earlier visit, I wandered into Antonia’s tiny grocery shop and ended up talking with her for hours over homemade aged cheese and glasses of souma, the local grape spirit. I hear she now also tends her own vegetable garden. 

Beyond Kallitsos you’ll reach Panagia Skopiani, a quintessential Cycladic chapel that hosts one of Serifos’ most celebrated religious festivals every year on August 15, the Feast of the Assumption.

Time for a Swim

Serifos’ best-known beach is Psili Ammos, on the island’s east coast, with its shallow turquoise waters and tamarisk trees. Nearby, the beaches of Aghios Sostis and Aghios Ioannis are overlooked by their namesake whitewashed chapels.

To the south lie Ganema, one of the island’s largest beaches, and Vagia. Sykamia, to the northwest, is a beautiful stretch of white sand and pebbles.

Where to Eat, Drink and Unwind

In Hora, start your day with coffee at Pano Piazza, opposite the Town Hall, where the walls display photographs by Katerina Kaloudi. Stou Stratou is a favorite for breakfast, brunch and light meals.

For authentic Serifian cuisine, head to Marathoriza, known for its roast goat and fennel fritters. Aloni serves spit-roasted meats with panoramic island views. As evening falls, Vatrachos and Gaidaros are popular for inventive cocktails and music.

At Platis Gialos, Nikoulias serves freshly fried cod, excellent chickpea stew (revythada), homemade cheese and many other ingredients sourced from the family’s own farm. A similar farm-to-table philosophy defines To Akrogiali, on Sykamia Beach, where the menu traditional meze takes center stage.

Rakostasi café in the hamlet of Kallitsos was recommended to me by Katerina Vaiou, who spends her summers on Serifos. On a terrace overlooking the sea, they serve fennel fritters, marinated anchovies, tomato salad with fresh local cheese, delicious meatballs and other homemade dishes. Credit belongs both to the couple who brought the café back to life and to the village association that fought for its reopening. A sign reads, “This is where strangers become friends,” and the atmosphere more than lives up to the sentiment.

In Livadi, Metalleio pairs mining-inspired décor with refined cooking and views towards HChora. For seafood, Kali’s Fish Taverna remains a long-standing favorite, while Istioploikos is an ideal place for cocktails by the waterfront.

On Psili Ammos Beach, Manolis has been welcoming visitors since the days when grandfather Manolis served fried eggs to campers. Today, his grandchildren continue the tradition, with Andreas earning a reputation as the island’s finest grill master. Don’t miss the grilled squid and the baked imam eggplants. Just a short distance away, Chrysoloras Winery offers wine tastings for a modest fee.

Hidden Gems

Hiking enthusiasts should explore Serifos’ extensive network of walking trails, which crisscross much of the island and reveal some of its most rewarding landscapes.

Before leaving the island, make one final stop at Kerameio, on the road between Hora and Livadi, where ceramic artist Natasa Kalogeropoulou creates beautiful handcrafted pottery inspired by Serifos’ landscape and traditions.