Avraam, in Drapetsona since 1938

A Greek from the Black Sea Pontus region, Avraam Savvidis opened his kebab joint in the Piraeus district of Drapetsona in 1938. More followed suit and the area became something of a hotspot, though its success was not due to the customary wrapped souvlaki, but to so-called “open portions.” Avraam handed over the business to his daughter and she, in turn sold it to its present owner, Harilaos Vassos, and his associate, fellow-Epirote Vangelis, who continue to work it the old way.

They prepare the mince for the kebabs themselves – using a 60-40 ratio of beef and lamb – and put the patties onto long metal skewers. They also do pork skewers, which, like the kebabs, are cooked over coals. Harilaos is a very deft hand at the grill and takes the time to get the meat just right. They also grill the tomatoes – a signature move – so they ooze sweetness and go on the plate hot. The meat and tomato goes onto a big pita flatbread from the historic Hasiotis bakery.

The plate also includes a handful of fries – a more recent addition – and grilled pepper, either hot Cretan green ones or sweet red ones from Florina. The “giartlou” is also quite special, as it further entails a big dollop of rich yogurt from Epirus and squashed grilled tomato. All this makes for a hearty meal that some may find a bit heavy.

Rodopolis, in Keratsini since 1945

A historic souvlaki place and an enduring favorite among locals, Rodopolis – Kosmidis is located on a quiet street on the border between Keratsini and Drapetsona. It was opened in 1945 by Panagiotis Kosmidis and his wife, Olga, internal refugees who named it after their village, Rodopoli, in Serres, northern Greece. Today it is run by their son, Christos, who is also an artist and is responsible for the restaurant’s look, which is quirky, cozy and rustic like a mountain refuge.

The walls are paneled in wood and decorated with one-of-a-kind pieces like an installation made of recycled bottles, a small figurine of a Pontic man paying tribute to the family’s Black Sea roots and an assortment of other objects of bronze, glass and metal. There’s a TV that’s always tuned into a news or sports program and no music. This restaurant is famed for its open-faced rather than wrapped souvlakis. These consist of a small white plate with two big pita flatbreads that have been lightly grilled on a metal plate topped by well-cooked meat, sweet and juicy tomato, sliced onion and the secret Rodopolis sauce, a thing of beauty whose flavor stays with you even after the meal.

Many souvlaki places in western Piraeus add a similar tomato sauce – though the origins of the custom are not known – whose recipe is always a secret passed down through the generations. The choice of meat is melt-in-your-mouth minced beef patties, spicy soutzoukaki or skewers of lean pork, while tzatziki and fried potatoes are also available as extra toppings. Panagiotis is still around and is responsible for preparing the meat, which he buys locally. He insists on keeping the menu small because he knows that expansion often comes with concessions on quality. The meat is grilled to order – never in advance.

At Polyvios for open portions since 1935

Drapetsona’s oldest souvlaki joint is behind the Church of Aghios Dionysos and the Papaioannou Bridge, a historic part of this gritty Piraeus neighborhood that was once an Asia Minor refugee shanty town and home to a renowned rebetiko bar. It was opened by Polyvios Silvestridis in 1935, initially as a cheap eatery serving simple fare and later moving onto souvlaki. Today it is run by the original owner’s grandson, who not only has the same name but has also kept the manner of working more or less the same too.

Polyvios Jr remembers Aghiou Dimitriou Street during its heyday in the 1970s and 80s after its popularity skyrocketed with the addition of four more restaurants. Like other souvlaki restaurants in the broader Piraeus area, Polyvios specializes in open-faced souvlaki, a district trademark. Here, two flatbreads come topped with meat, onion and parsley. Tzatziki and fresh fries are extras. “Short and sweet,” is how he describes the “menu.” “I make everything myself, from scratch, so I know exactly what goes into it. I make the soutzouki sausage using my grandfather’s recipe – I won’t share it with anyone – kebab, round meatballs and pork. We’ve got fried potatoes and tzatziki or plain yogurt sauce – and that’s it. The end.”