Weekend Escape: Kalambaka and the Monasteries of Meteora
A perfect weekend getaway: wander among...
The railway station, a work by Evaristo de Chirico.
© Hercules Milas/Alamy/VISUALHELLAS.GR
With the Mt Pilio range just a short ride away, Volos is an ideal destination for the autumn months. The summer heat has subsided, making it perfect for strolling along the city’s seafront promenade, while the nearby mountains offer drives and hikes through landscapes painted in fall colors.
The neighborhood of Nea Ionia began to take shape in 1924, when thousands of Asia Minor Greeks arrived as refugees in the city. Small, low houses known as tetragona (“blocks”) sheltered entire families, and the district expanded steadily in the decades that followed. Even so, it still retains its own character. Its narrow lanes are so tight that not even a car – or sometimes not even two people side by side – can pass through at once. Walking through Nea Ionia feels like stepping into another era; in bygone days, daily life may have been difficult, but the sense of community was strong.
Its small squares remain gathering points, especially in the afternoons. Local landmarks include the football stadium of Niki Volou and the many tsipouradika (or tsipouro tavernas) scattered throughout the area. Start your walk from the bridge that spans the Krausidonas River, a waterway that separates the rest of Volos from Nea Ionia, and keep going until you reach the stadium. You’ll also find characteristic refugee-era architecture west of Irinis Avenue and around the Church of the Evangelistria.
The neighborhood of Nea Ionia has a distinct character.
© Olga Deikou
The permanent collection of the Volos City Museum tells the city’s rich story through objects, photographs and recorded oral testimonies. The rise of trade through the port, the daily life of factory workers, historical events and personal narratives are all interwoven masterfully. The museum also hosts interesting temporary exhibitions. (Open Tue-Fri 09:00-14:00, Sat-Sun 10:30-13:30, and Wed & Fri 18:00-21:00; free admission; 17 Feron)
Under the auspices of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, the abandoned Tsalapatas Brickworks was transformed into a museum in 2007, reviving the production process of bricks and tiles for the viewing pleasure of visitors. The extensive damage caused by Storm Daniel in the fall of 2023 forced its closure, but restoration works are underway, and it is expected to reopen in the coming months. (Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum, South Gate, Palaia district).
Beyond tsipouro, Volos is renowned for its kaseri cheese.
© Angelos Giotopoulos
Tsipouro drinking, a tradition of the city.
© Angelos Giotopoulos
When in Volos, the gastronomic experience you simply cannot miss is a tour of the city’s famous tsipouradika. You don’t order food here, only tsipouro, specifying whether you prefer it with or without anise. With every round you order, a new wave of meze arrives at your table, each richer and more refined than the previous one: langoustine grilled with coarse salt; fried red mullet; chargrilled octopus; potatoes roasted in the embers; sardines; and dozens more. You’re also likely to taste local specialties such as tsitsiravla (the young shoots of the terebinth tree), raw clams and monkfish tails. For authentic flavors and atmosphere, head to Kavouras (3 Chatziargyri), Tou Teli (48 Ermou), or Boko (143 Maiandrou).
View this post on Instagram
Right on the seafront, on the eastern side of the city, stands Domotel Xenia Volos City Resort (1 Plastira, domotel.gr). Built in the 1960s and fully renovated in 2006, it now operates as a five-star hotel. Many of its rooms and suites enjoy sea views. Another hotel with a storied past is Aegli (24 Argonauton, aegli.gr), formed by the restoration of the historic Aegli and Pallas hotels, which first opened in 1938 and 1928 respectively. Centrally located with views of the port, the new Aegli offers modern rooms and suites.
The Mt Pilio range offers unforgettable experiences and is ideal for outdoor activities. Autumn is the perfect season for hiking its many trails – the fall foliage on the plane and chestnut trees creates enchanting forest scenes. Walk from Tsagarada to Milies or from Hania to Mouresi; both are sections of the Long Pelion Trail (longpeliontrail.gr).
Volos is famous for many products, including its local tsipouro (brands such as Apostolakis, Tokalis and Thessaliko are renowned), available in wine shops across the city. The city is also known for the halva made by the Papagiannopoulos family (2 Vassani), produced since 1919 and known for its pleasantly chewy texture. Another family-run business, Karakana Dairy (15 Polimeri), makes delicious kaseri cheese in two versions: classic and aged. And don’t leave without trying tsitsiravla, the tender shoots of a wild pistachio tree preserved in brine, a perfect pairing for tsipouro.
Milies
© Shutterstock
Hop aboard the legendary Pilio Train and ride the route from Ano Lechonia to Milies. Along the way, you’ll witness landscapes of unparalleled beauty and scenes only Pilio can offer. As the historic train cars climb the mountain slopes, the sea opens up before you; later, just before reaching the village of Milies, you’ll cross the De Chirico Bridge, named after the engineer who oversaw its construction, the father of the painter Giorgio de Chirico.
This narrow-gauge line – just 60 cm, the smallest in Greece – was inaugurated in 1903. The train departs every Saturday and Sunday at 10:00 from Ano Lechonia, arriving in Milies at 11:35. The returning train leaves Milies at 15:00, and round-trip tickets cost €18. The Pilio Train usually operates until mid-October.
A perfect weekend getaway: wander among...
How Metsovo thrives against the odds...
Discover how ancient Greek architecture inspired...
The imposing mountain range of Agrafa...