Leloudas

Some places draw you in with their ambiance, others with their food. Leloudas offers both in abundance. Open since 1928 on a quiet side street off Petrou Ralli, this taverna remains virtually untouched by time. While the nostalgic atmosphere alone is enough to lure you in, it’s the food that truly makes Leloudas a destination: Athens’ best fried cod, served with a potent skordalia (garlic spread), and other simple yet superbly crafted dishes make a trip to Votanikos worthwhile. Tucked away “in the middle of nowhere,” amid the industrial depots and warehouses, Leloudas is a time capsule.

The food is served on floral-patterned dishes that evoke the warmth of a grandmother’s kitchen. Feast on meatballs, made with freshly ground meat and plenty of herbs, hearty boiled meats, the “poor man’s dish” (fried potatoes topped with minced meat and grated mizithra cheese), red sauce lamb, or whatever the kitchen has prepared that day, accompanied by their house wine. 

Margaro

With a fixed menu and the Naval Academy as its backdrop, Margaro stands is a rare find – arguably the only true fry house of its kind in Piraeus. Located at the end of Hatzikyriakou Avenue, this iconic spot keeps its frying pan sizzling, staying true to its cult following. Margaro offers no frills, no fries, or fancy sides; just red mullet or striped mullet, shrimp or langoustines, bread, and Greek salad. This minimalism, combined with the flawless execution of these staples, offers a reassuring sense of perfection. The service matches the simplicity – quick and efficient. By the time you’ve taken your first sip of beer, the juicy and perfectly salted shrimp will already be waiting on your plate.

To Eidikón 

In the early 1920s, Aristidis Papakonstantinou opened To Eidikón (The Special) Grocery & Wine Shop in Aghia Sofia, near Drapetsona. It started off as a grocery and deli, with only a few tables for locals to sit and enjoy simple bites: wine, cheeses from the family dairy in Gardiki, Trikala, a few tomatoes, olives, canned sardines, and whatever came out of the frying pan. Aristidis’ son Apostolos took over the business in the late 1960s, and nearly a century later, the reins are once again in the hands of an Aristidis – the founder’s grandson. Even though it is now only a taverna, it continues to welcome neighbors who stop in for cheese or a can of preserves.

The interior remains untouched: towering antique refrigerators, hand-painted cement tiles, vintage light fixtures, old radios, and walls filled with signs, photos, and trinkets. Every corner holds a piece of history, and together they create a timeless sense of place.

Skylodimos

Stepping into Skylodimos transports you to a bygone era. A slice of graviera cheese is served on simple paper, wine is poured into small glasses, and crates of cabbages, oranges, and onions fill the center of the room. Around the edges, shelves brim with everyday essentials: cleaning supplies, oils, instant coffee, legumes, canned goods, and paper products. The lively conversations among customers often revolve around Ethnikos Piraeus (the local football team), fishing tales, and current events, creating an atmosphere as authentic as the setting itself.

This grocery-taverna has been a neighborhood institution since the late 1950s. Philippos, the owner, embodies the spirit of Skylodimos, gliding effortlessly between the cash register, table service, and the modest kitchen where he prepares the food. The menu is unpretentious but delicious: graviera cheese, sardines, golden hand-cut fries, perfectly cooked eggs, tender meatballs, and the highlight – a spicy omelet with kavourmas (cured beef). While neighbors stop by to pick up daily essentials, diners savor every bite, often planning their next visit before they’ve even finished their meal.

Trifylli

It doesn’t matter which team you support – this legendary wine tavern, tucked behind Gate 13 of the historic Alexandras Avenue football stadium (the Panathinaikos fan section), is a must-visit for a taste of Athens’ history. For over 60 years, Trifylli has welcomed an eclectic mix of customers. Originally a humble wine shop where customers brought their own food in plastic containers, it has since evolved into a cultural landmark. Its tables have hosted everyone from football players and managers to artists, laborers, and intellectuals.

Today, the diverse clientele keeps the spirit of this living museum alive. The taverna’s crispy-coated meatballs are an undeniable highlight and its signature dish. But don’t overlook the other selections, such as cod with skordalia or liver with lemon and oregano, which are equally simple yet expertly prepared and full of flavor.

Zoodochos Pigi 

Kostas and Grigoris Lamprou opened this taverna as a wine shop before World War II. Although it was destroyed in a bombing, the Lamprou family lovingly rebuilt it and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary of Zoodochos Pigi, the local church. In its early days, they sold their own wine and served small meze dishes prepared by Kostas’ wife, Maria. Today, Zoodochos Pigi opens its doors after 8 p.m., offering outdoor seating for warm, balmy evenings and a cozy interior that invites you to linger on cooler nights.

The menu focuses on homemade dishes, with the mezes taking center stage. Don’t miss the stuffed cabbage rolls or the “Lebanese” dish – Arabic flatbreads filled with spiced minced meat, served with fresh tomato, yogurt, and parsley. From the grill, the kebabs shine, lighter and more flavorful than the usual fare. Another standout is the liver: meltingly tender, paired with a tangy orange mustard sauce that transforms the dish into something extraordinary.

Marathonitis

What sets Marathonitis apart is the fact that it only opens during the winter, but it’s the food and rich history that truly earn it a place on this list. This cozy basement taverna in Pangrati has been a local treasure for three generations. Founded by Fotis Avgeropoulos and later run by his son-in-law Dimitris Kymbaropoulos, it is now lovingly managed by Fotis, the grandson. The interior oozes old-world charm, but it’s the food that draws diners back time and again – a legacy of recipes perfected over decades. The spicy tyrokafteri, crispy pastourmadopita (savory pastirma pies), juicy frygadeli (grilled skewered lamb offal), and giant beans in tomato sauce are all favorites, but the real stars are the lamb and mutton chops. Succulent and full of flavor, these chops are worth the visit on their own. Marathonitis is a must-visit destination for any food lover, even if only for a single season each year.

Axotis

The story of Axotis began in 1956, in a completely different Athens. Ask about its history, and someone will point to the many family photos that line the walls – snapshots of the grandfather and his group of friends, a team of builders who constructed the taverna with their hands. Today, his grandson Nikos Vasilas and his wife Evi continue his legacy, lovingly preserving the taverna’s timeless charm. The wood paneling, marble floors, and an old fridge with a carved frame remain unchanged, evoking a sense of nostalgia with every visit. The lamb chops are a must-try – juicy, flavorful, and perfectly cooked. Pair them with the thin, crispy fries, so delicate and golden they wouldn’t be out of place in a French bistro. For a sweet finish, the halva with cinnamon and lemon juice is a sweet reminder of tradition, served just as it was decades ago, offering a comforting taste of the past.

Antonis’ Koutouki

Walking into Antonis’ Koutouki is like stepping into someone’s living room. From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted with a warmth and sense of familiarity that’s hard to find elsewhere. The decor adds to the cozy atmosphere, with walls and shelves filled with old memorabilia, antique furniture, unique souvenirs, and cherished family heirlooms that tell their own stories.

Once you’ve taken in the nostalgic atmosphere, it’s time to savor the food. The menu showcases classic Greek flavors, with highlights like milk-fed lamb chops from Lesvos, fried skate, year-round fried cod with skordalia, and homemade kokoretsi. Vegetarians will find joy in the juicy, fluffy tomato fritters, bursting with fresh flavor.

Don’t miss the tyrokafteri – an irresistible, creamy feta cheese spread with fresh chili peppers and olive oil that adds a spicy kick to any dish. And be sure to try the airy and light meatballs that practically melt in your mouth.

Diporto

At Diporto, don’t be surprised if you have to share a table with strangers. The proprietor, Mr. Mitsos, operates with quiet efficiency, guiding you to a seat with minimal fuss – because here, the focus is on the food, not formalities. This taverna embodies the very roots of Athenian dining, serving dishes as timeless as the space itself. The menu is simple but satisfying: warm greens and fava, chickpea stew, bean soup, beef soup, giouvetsi, braised potatoes, grilled fish, or a plate of cuttlefish or octopus. Bread is always included, and the service is remarkably swift.

By the time you’ve settled into your seat, your appetizer has already arrived, laid out on greaseproof paper. For some, Diporto is a cult classic – a place to linger and absorb its old-world charm. But its true value lies beyond its menu or rustic, homemade retsina. It’s a place steeped in history, cultural tradition, and raw authenticity. Here, Mr. Mitsos, clad in his immaculate white uniform, doesn’t just feed your body – he nourishes your soul. His quiet yet deliberate actions speak of a life lived in service to others, offering not just a meal, but a piece of Athens itself. 

This article was previously published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.