Despotiko: A Remote Sacred Island in the Cyclades
New excavations shed light on an...
Kayaking along the cliffs at Apothikes.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Apothika is one of the most beautiful beaches on Chios, with fine pebbles, crystal-clear deep waters, and striking rock formations framing the bay. The best way to experience the coastline is by kayak. Rent one from the Tortuga beach canteen and paddle around the sheltered cove, discovering hidden inlets, sea caves and secluded beaches inaccessible by land. Back on shore, Tortuga is a great place for a cold drink or a light meal, with panoramic views across the bay. (Tel. (+30) 697.472.5459)
View of the Kambos, renowned for its historic estates and mansions.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Beneath the shade of a fragrant linden tree and surrounded by citrus groves, the orange pie somehow tastes even better – perhaps because it is made with oranges grown right here in Kampos. The same is true of the candied mandarin spoon sweet and the Negroni infused with Chios mastiha and locally grown citrus. At Perivoli Café, many of the cocktails, fresh juices, desserts, and light snacks celebrate the island’s exceptional produce. The owners also cultivate and process their own premium citrus fruits under the Perivoli name.
The café is set within the orchard of an authentic Kampos mansion, right next to the Citrus Museum. In addition to its beautiful surroundings, live music, film screenings, and delicious menu, it offers visitors a fascinating introduction to the history of this unique area. Discover how Kampos citrus fruits were once exported around the world as luxury goods, learn about traditional cultivation and processing techniques, admire the distinctive architecture of the mansion – with its orchard, irrigation system, and waterwheel – and explore the unique social structure established by the region’s merchants and estate owners. (Tel. (+30) 22710.332.02)
View of the listed Schools of Volissos, where this year's DEO exhibition is being held.
© Nelo Meci & Kelly Katsarou
While Chios is best known for the medieval mastic villages of the south, I personally tend to avoid them at the height of summer. Instead, I head north, where the charming village of Volissos offers a quieter and equally rewarding experience. With its beautiful Byzantine castle, peaceful lanes, picturesque neighboring villages and the vast Managros Beach, Volissos is well worth more than a day trip; it’s a place to stay and explore. Nearby Pirama is home to a traditional café that, from July 22, hosts a contemporary art exhibition in collaboration with the artistic collective WeedsChat.
Following last year’s devastating wildfires, there is even more reason to support the region. The contemporary art organization DEO has done exactly that by choosing Volissos as the venue for its sixth annual exhibition. Curated by Akis Kokkinos, “Letter to a Frail Father” brings together works by 14 international artists at the preserved Michalis Papamavros School building. The exhibition is accompanied by an engaging program of events and workshops for both adults and children, curated by Evita Kyriazi. (More information: deoprojects.com)
At the summit of Mount Pelinaio, beside the Chapel of the Holy Trinity.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Summer may not seem like the ideal season for hiking, but an early start makes the climb to Mount Pelinnaio well worth the effort. At 1,297 meters, it is the highest mountain on Chios, and several routes lead to its summit from the surrounding villages.
At the top stands the small metal chapel of Aghia Triada, built on a site where tradition says a Temple of Zeus once stood, followed centuries later by a chapel dedicated to Prophitis Elias. The panoramic views are spectacular, but perhaps the most memorable sight is the chapel itself, anchored with heavy chains to withstand the powerful winds that sweep across the summit.
For detailed route information, guided hikes, or suggestions for exploring old cobbled paths, mountains, gorges, and secluded beaches, contact Chios Hiking (Tel. (+30) 698.416.7157). If you’d like to combine hiking with visits to cultural monuments, nature observation, and complete holiday experiences, Chios Trails (chiostrails.gr) offers a range of thoughtfully designed itineraries.
The people whose businesses keep the village of Pityos alive.
© Giannis Zindrilis
Pityos is a small village in central Chios that has become an inspiring example of community-led rural revival. Thanks to the vision of journalist Nikos Georgoulis and the social cooperative he established with local residents, the village has a model of sustainable tourism.
It all began with Makelos, an outstanding taverna beneath a magnificent plane tree, where you can enjoy handmade pasta, exceptional local meats, and traditional dishes rarely found elsewhere on the island. Since then, the community has documented local traditions, launched the annual Livestock Festival, recorded the village’s songs – accessible through QR codes placed around the village – and oorganized guided tours of the medieval castle.
The renewed interest has helped sustain long-established businesses, including the village bakery, while encouraging new ventures such as a guesthouse, café and confectionery. Visitors can also take part in workshops showcasing traditional skills, including cheesemaking and weaving. Make time for a visit. Pityos is not only a beautiful village but also an inspiring example of how local initiative can help sustain rural communities. And Makelos serves some of the finest food on Chios. (Tel. (+30) 22720.220.10)
The Livestock Festival takes place on the last weekend of July.
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