For many visitors to Greece, the name ‘Saronic’ is most associated with the Saronic Gulf and the popular islands of Spetses, Hydra and Poros. But towards the other, eastern end of the gulf, there where the peninsula of Attica meets the Aegean at the cape of Sounion with its famed Temple of Poseidon, you will find another ‘Saronic’ – specifically the Municipality of Saronikos, an area with much to explore and one that is only a short drive from Athens.

We recently had the pleasure of exploring the coastline of Saronikos and the beauty of its mountainous interior – the areas around the towns and villages of Anavyssos, Palaia Fokaia, Saronida, Kouvaras and Kalyvia Thorikou 

Overall the municipality has 30,000 year-round residents, and about 70,000 seasonal residents – mainly Athenians who have summer homes in the region which they move to in the warmer months. Additionally, the region receives as many as 100,000 day-trippers per day during the summer months, according to Mayor Georgios Sofronis.

Saronida in particular is a popular part of the Athens Riviera for beach-goers, while the area’s large, high-end resorts also frequently host conferences and large corporate events.

Following a four-day tour of the area we can wholeheartedly recommend you plan a similar journey. Given its proximity to Athens it is worth visiting even for just a day-long trip (which can also be combined with a visit to the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion).

Here you can hike along paths through pine forests, eat fantastic grilled meats in the village of Kalyvia, or take long, contemplative walks along pretty beaches. You can go horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking and windsurfing. You can even meet alpacas and discover other unexpected and little-known charms in Athens’ backyard.

Living Traditions

The inhabitants of Palaia Fokaia are descended from refugees from Asia Minor; the families in Anavyssos originally arrived from Cappadocia; whereas Kalyvia is mainly made up of Arvanites (a people who immigrated in the middle ages from what is today Albania).

Every village and town has its own roots and traditions that it maintains. Indeed that is precisely the mission of the small Folk Museum of Anavyssos where the star of the show is the large loom from Cappadocia. Anavyssos is also home to the Makis Agoutoglou Museum of Asia Minor Culture. While this is currently closed for renovations, it is expected to reopen in the new year.

Additionally, many of the area’s residents also seek to keep their traditions alive through personal initiatives. One such person is Giota Drakou who is attempting to breathe new life into the tradition of ‘bread decorating’. This age-old practice once saw women spending hours sculpting dough to create loaves with symbolic motifs, (such as pomegranates for good luck).

Windsurfers and fishing boats

The beaches of the municipality of Saronikos are dotted along the attractive coastal Athens-Sounion road. Lapped by waters that are in places turquoise, in others green or deep blue, some of the them are lined by beach bars and cafés, while others are tucked away and quiet.

At the 59th kilometer of the coastal road, opposite the islet of Patroklos, one can see the final stretch leading all the way to the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion. Nearby is a memorial to the sinking of the Norwegian steamboat “Oria”, one of the largest maritime disasters ever to happen in the Mediterranean. The ship foundered in a storm of the coast of Attica during the Second World War, costing the lives of about 4,000 people (mainly Italian prisoners of war).

We toured the beaches of Aghios Nikolaos in Lagonissi, Skalakia and Thymari, enjoying the sound of the autumnal sea lapping the shore. We felt envious on seeing the few remaining swimmers, and even more so on spotting the windsurfers in the bay of Anavyssos which is a hotspot for the sport, complete with a windsurfing club on the beach.

Vineyards and Golden Olives

Do not miss out on visiting the Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments which have been faithfully preserved in the archaeological site of Ennea Pyrgi, just two kilometers outside Kalyvia Thorikou at the site of the medieval settlement.

The archaeologist Eleni Gkini-Tsofopoulou oversaw the preservation work of the churches and we had the joy of being given a tour by her, giving us a deep insight into these little-known living monuments.

The single-roomed wooden-roofed basilica of Aghion Taxiarchon includes sections of frescos dating from the 13th to the 19th centuries, a carved iconostasis and other notable features. Capitals of ancient columns have been built into the walls and contemporary worshippers still visit every Tuesday when the church is open.

Other Places to Visit

Strofilia Winery (tel. +30 22910.41650). The only visitable winery in the area and one which is the process of realigning itself. Discover new and old labels.

Polytropon Art Space (tel. +30 22993.01466). An interesting art space in Kalyvia Thorikou. The courtyard is filled with works by the well-known artist Gavrilos who has collaborated with many important Greek artists. Themed nights are frequently organized.

Oneirodimiourgies (tel. +30 22910.38063, +30 6974.115115). A workshop on the main road of Anavyssos with high quality handmade natural soaps made with olive oil and local herbs.