This text is part of the article “And the Living is A-Z”, published in Greece-Is Athens, Summer 2018 Edition. By Paulina Björk Kapsalis, Maria Coveou, Nena Dimitriou, Alex King, Maria Korachai, Pagona Lipsati & Alexandra Tzavella.

A haven for foodies, especially seafood enthusiasts, this little seaport is as close to an island setting as you can get in the city. Houses are built amphitheatrically on the slopes rising around the harbor, and the tables of the fish restaurants – the main reason people come here – stand at the water’s edge.

Among the many wonderful dining options, we like Papaioannou (42 Akti Koumoundourou), an old taverna that has transformed itself to an establishment that serves high-class restaurant-quality food, and, of course, the brilliant Michelin-starred Varoulko Seaside (52 Akti Koumoundourou), where celebrity chef Lefteris Lazarou cooks alongside the talented Ioannis Parikos. Lazarou is known as the chef who introduced creative seafood to Greek cuisine, and his menu reflects it. Dishes include incredible fresh fish, minced shrimp-stuffed cabbage rolls with turmeric sauce, and spectacular desserts.

For a cocktail after dinner, Mary Pickford, right next to Varoulko (50 Akti Koumoundourou), is the place to go.