A trendy hub by the Byzantine walls

This laidback neighborhood, centered around the 14th-century Church of the Holy Apostles (Αghion Apostolon) by the Byzantine walls, has recently become one of the most popular in the city. Apart from the church and the Ottoman-era Pasha Hamam, the architecture in the area runs from Bauhaus through to ’90s structures whose ground-floor industrial spaces have attracted a new generation of creative professionals. The graphic designer Mike Rafail opened the design studio and interactive collective space That Long Black Cloud (9-10 Piniou), hosting exhibitions, graphic design seminars, and a store selling ceramics and clothing. The creativity continues at Koru (15 Olympou), where fresh interpretations of Greek cuisine make this one of the most surprising dining destinations of the moment. You can cap the night off at Utopia Taproom (11 Gladstonos), whose selection of strictly independent local craft beers underscores the establishment’s strong community spirit. – Amber Charmei

Loved by locals

The part of town around the 5th-century Church of the Acheiropoietos has several places worth a visit. On the square behind the church, you can enjoy a matcha latte at Japanese-inspired Shed (11 Patriarchou Dionisiou) or wander down the street to see what’s going on at the coffee-and-art collective I Mikri Frida, aka La Nina Frida (4 Acheiropoietou). There’s more art around the corner at NR40 Urban Arts (10 Platonos), a café-bar plus gallery space for local artists, with a tattoo and piercing studio upstairs. Further along adjoining Filippou Street is Naked Specialty Coffee (62 Filippou), which offers delicious brunch options all week.

In the afternoon, they serve homemade savory tarts and other snacks; the wine list consists exclusively of natural wines from small Greek wineries. For a sweet finale, try freshly made hand-dipped bonbons from the open kitchen at Oh La La Chocolat (44 Filippou). – Amber Charmei

Where the young come for fun

The streets in the university area are ideal for browsing through bookstores, record shops and vintage fashion boutiques. Just above Svolou Street is the long pedestrianized square called Ioannou Delliou, where locals gather in the afternoons or evenings for meze and conversation under the trees at casual favorites such as Tarti (9 Ioannou Delliou) and Kafeneio Minion (8 Kamvounion & Ioannou Delliou). Two more recent additions have turned this shaded spot into a destination in itself. At the bookstore-café Υiafka (4 Ioannou Delliou), you can settle in with a cappuccino and get some work done or read a book, or you can drop by for book readings or other events – check their calendar. Across the square is the lively and friendly Peach Boy (5 Ioannou Delliou), open all day; here, you᾿ll find specialty coffees, brunch dishes and snacks during the daytime, and drinks and events in the evenings. The occasional street party might take place out front. – Amber Charmei

Urban elegance

The neighborhood known as “Depot” – you pronounce it as if you were speaking French – was an ultra-elite district during the Belle Epoque. Serene and green, it still feels pretty exclusive, especially along Vafopoulou Street, whose plane trees reach high above the rooftops. There’s a handful of choice places to visit here. The charming Oraio Dépôt (18 Vafopoulou), tucked behind the hedges on the wide sidewalk, offers coffee, drinks and meze, all while doubling as a “bakaliko,” or neighborhood grocery. At Penelope Loom (8 Vafopoulou), Merope Ververi creates hand-woven artworks, minimalist bags, and other works fashioned from locally sourced wool and other organic materials. Near Vasilissis Olgas, Birdie Num Num (28 Vafopoulou) serves coffee and cocktails plus small dishes and weekend brunch options, while Kronos (30 Vafopoulou), filled with collectibles and curiosities, has been offering a classic taverna experience since 1961. Around the corner is the Municipal Art Gallery (182 Vasilissis Olgas) in the historic Villa Bianca, and further up the street is the grandiose Villa Allatini (198 Vasilissis Olgas). – Amber Charmei

Fresh from the oven

There are plenty of places in town where you᾽ll find tasty evidence of the newest trend in baking, slow-fermented bread made with sourdough. It started with the 72H Bakehouse in the renovated Modiano Market (24 Ermou & 33 Vasileos Irakleiou), an attractive establishment that sells traditional loaves of bread, buttery croissants and focaccia sandwiches. Country Breadery (13 Proxenou Koromila) came later, offering a wide variety of baked goods, both breads and pastries. Recently, Sourdough Microbakery opened its doors (15 Mitropoleos Iosif). Here, sourdough viennoiserie, homemade pies, hearty focaccias, and delicious sandwiches complement the selected natural wines served on the spot. – John Papadimitriou