For most Athens visitors, all paths inevitably lead to the Acropolis, a monument towering above the city like a watchful guardian. But venture a kilometer and a half away, into the Zappeion Gardens, and you’ll find a much smaller attraction, almost invisible in his leafy hideaway: a small statue of Eros, the god of love, known to many by his Roman name Cupid. Unlike the Acropolis, he isn’t here to awe or impress. At first glance, he seems preoccupied, fiddling with his bow, as if unaware of your presence. Don’t be fooled. He’s seen you already. While the Acropolis captures your gaze, Eros takes aim at your heart – his arrow ready to make you fall hopelessly in love with this city of gods.

Today, Athens is a city that still embraces the scattered monuments of classical antiquity, along with historical traces of the East and the Balkans. Yet, it’s also a capital in the midst of a gastronomic and artistic renaissance, riding the wave of an economic boom. There are countless things here to fall in love with, and like the elusive love archer’s statue, many of them seem to appear when you least expect it. Still, a little nudge can help serendipity along, so I’ve put together a list of some of the places where the city’s hidden treasures await.

A green labyrinth

Just a few steps north of the statue of Eros in the Zappeion Gardens lie the National Gardens, an oasis in the heart of Athens, home to thousands of species of trees and plants, along with ducks, turtles, rabbits, and solemn busts of prominent figures from modern Greek history. Once reserved for the royal family alone, these verdant paths were created by Queen Amalia, wife of King Otto. She ordered thousands of plants and, in 1842, planted the majestic Washingtonia robusta palms that today form a soaring tree tunnel – the only row of its kind in southeastern Europe – welcoming visitors at the Amalias Avenue entrance. More than eighty years ago, the author Henry Miller wrote: “This park remains in my memory as no other park I have visited in my life,” and as you will discover, its magic has not dimmed with time.

The Quarter of the Gods

A five-minute walk from the National Gardens brings you to a neighborhood inhabited since antiquity – the heart of ancient Athens. Today, in the “quarter of the gods,” as Plaka is called, flower-filled courtyards and pastel-colored 19th-century houses, preserved for their historical significance and draped in fuchsia bougainvillea, transport you back to an older Athens. Here, stray cats play hide-and-seek among archaeological sites like the Roman Agora and Hadrian’s Library, or lounge on the steps of historic spots such as Apanemia (4 Tholou), a haunt for bohemian artists of the ’60s.

Plaka is home to many traditional cafes and taverns. The timeless café Yiasemi (23 Mnisikleous) is popular on social media, known for its picturesque stairs that double as seating (its equally beautiful terrace sees fewer diners). Another favorite is Café Dioskouroi (13 Dioskouron), offering views of the Roman Agora.

In case you didn’t know, Athens conceals a Cycladic island in its heart, right above Plaka. In the second half of the 19th century, the area now known as Anafiotika was settled by workers from the Aegean island of Anafi, brought in to help build King Otto’s palaces. Unable to afford housing in other parts of the city, they built their homes here. The sight of these well-preserved whitewashed houses, with their colorful shutters and flower-filled steps, is worth the climb – as are the outstanding views.

Anafiotika also bore witness to the tragic end of a great love. The story of Michail Mimikos and Mary Weber shocked Athens in 1893. Mimikos, a doctor, and Weber, a German governess at the palace, met and fell in love in what were then the Royal Gardens. When he fell ill and did not respond for several days, Mary believed he had abandoned her. She sent him an ultimatum demanding a meeting, but in an era of limited communication, he never received her letter in time. Distraught, she threw herself from a cliff beneath the Acropolis, and upon learning of her death, Mimikos took his own life.

It might be the melodies of street musicians playing the tunes of legendary Greek composer Manos Hadjidakis that draw you to Dionysiou Areopagitou Street – not only the most beautiful pedestrianized road in Athens but also one of the most stunning in the world. As you stroll past neoclassical and art-deco buildings on one side and the Acropolis on the other, you’ll encounter the ancient Theater of Dionysus. A little further along, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 160 AD, still electrifies Athenian evenings with its events, especially during the summer months.

Must-see museums

That mischievous god Eros isn’t done with you yet; he makes another appearance at the beautiful Acropolis Museum, which celebrated its 15th anniversary last June. His likenesses are displayed alongside treasures such as the Caryatids, a section of the Parthenon marbles, the statue of Athena the Virgin, and the magnificent Calf-Bearer, a statue dating back to around 560 BC. There’s also a “museum under the museum,” showcasing finds uncovered during the building’s construction. Here, you can explore an ancient neighborhood and get a glimpse into daily life in Athens from the 4th millennium BC to the 12th century AD. For a rendezvous with the gods on the most beautiful rooftop in Athens, head up to the museum’s café, where stunning views of the Parthenon accompany your coffee or meal – every Friday and Saturday, the menu features Greek PDO products.

You’ll encounter Eros at another must-see museum in the city as well: the National Archaeological Museum (44 28is Oktovriou). Here, a famous marble sculpture group depicts the god Eros struggling with the god Pan, pulling him away from Aphrodite. The museum is home to many other impressive artifacts, including the Mask of Agamemnon, a masterpiece of Mycenaean craftsmanship from the 16th century BC, and the Antikythera Mechanism, believed to be the world’s first analog computer.

Past and present

In just a few hundred meters, you leave behind the marble-carved remnants of ancient Athens and enter a world of wrought metal and vibrant spray paint. In the alleys of Psyrri, artisans labor in their workshops alongside themed restaurants and trendy bars, while the merchants of Abyssinia Square, just across Ermou Street, raise their blinds each morning to display stalls brimming with vintage treasures – from paintings and statuettes to clocks and old coins. In this edgier part of town, graffiti and murals color the streets as a new generation of Greeks experiments with creative ventures. Dance schools, t-shirt shops, bike shops, skate shops, and tattoo parlors coexist in a lively neighborhood that never sleeps.

Chic Kolonaki

Each neighborhood in Athens has its own distinct personality; just a few minutes from bustling Syntagma Square lies the upscale, unhurried area of Kolonaki. Here, the vibrant street aesthetics and thirst for fun that define Psyrri give way to a more sophisticated, stylish way of life. While the main square is currently under construction due to metro expansion, this won’t stop you from exploring the high-end shops, boutiques, and some of the city’s top art galleries, such as Crux, Skoufa Gallery, and Allouche Benias. It’s hard to imagine that back in the Ottoman era, before the founding of modern Greece, this densely populated neighborhood – with its luxury apartments – was once pastureland stretching up to the slopes of Lycabettus Hill. Today, it’s a favored spot for business lunches at places like Alfiere (5 Sekeri). If you’re in the mood for a speciality stand-up espresso, at Redd on Kapsali Street you can choose the country of origin for your shot.

Would-be writers might find inspiration in the shade of the elms at Dexameni, the historic sidewalk café once frequented by Nikos Kazantzakis and other literary greats. Others will savor the good food and the excellent people-watching. For a more profound cultural experience, visit the Museum of Cycladic Art (4 Neophytou Douka), where hauntingly beautiful figurines reveal the unique, austere forms of an ancient civilization that have influenced modern masters.

Portraits of Miles Davis, Django Reinhardt, and other jazz legends gaze down from the walls at Jazz in Jazz (4 Dinokratous), a cozy bar perfect for enjoying a good whiskey and some fine music. It’s the ideal retreat for a winter night, and who knows? You might find Cupid lurking here, too.

Sunsets and surprises

According to an ancient myth, the goddess Athena was carrying a giant limestone boulder to fortify the Acropolis when something startled her, causing her to drop it. Thus, Lycabettus Hill was formed, offering one of the most spectacular sunset views in the city. You can reach the summit by cable car (1 Aristippou) or on foot via paths, such as the one starting just a few meters from Dexameni. The café Green Tent makes a great resting spot on your way up, or if you’re climbing the southwest slope, be sure to visit the medieval Saint Isidore Church, set within a cave on the hillside. Northeast of the church, the Lycabettus Theatre, an open-air performance venue, reopened last year after a 15-year hiatus and now hosts concerts again.

At the summit, where the small white Chapel of Aghios Georgios stands, the entire city lies at your feet. As the sun dips under the horizon, the golden light bathes the rooftops and the columns of the Parthenon, casting a magical glow over Athens. It’s a breathtaking moment, and in this perfect spot, you might feel Cupid’s arrow strike, realizing you’ve fallen in love with the city spread out at your feet. Before the night fully takes hold and the city lights come up, make your way back down – there are still many more surprises waiting to be discovered in the twilight streets below.