Vafiadaki Street, early 1980s. Architect and urban planner Iosif Stefanou meticulously documents the details of a grand mansion in preparation for its restoration. Outside, contractors and builders gather in protest. Andrea Karga Street, winter 2001. On a stormy night, a neoclassical building in Ermoupolis crumbles to the ground. The following morning, municipal civil engineer Pavlos Chatzigrigoriou surveys the wreckage, pondering why such significant structures are allowed to collapse. Odysseos Street, September 2024. In the living room of the Kois mansion, a young couple sits beneath a vibrant, intricate ceiling fresco, using a tablet to explore the building’s history. Further north, at the end of Apollonos Street, a French couple scan a QR code outside the Prasakaki mansion and reads about its storied past on their phone. Built in 1834, nearly 190 years ago, the mansion remains a commanding and elegant presence.

These snapshots, spanning nearly five decades, encapsulate the ongoing journey of Ermoupolis’ architectural legacy. With around 1,290 documented neoclassical buildings—constructed between the 1830s and the early 20th century—the city stands is one of the earliest urban centers of the modern Greek state.

The Historical Context

Before 1822, the island’s population was concentrated in the medieval settlement of Ano Syros. Ermoupolis, by contrast, was little more than marshlands dotted with wooden shacks, despite its strategic location as a safe harbor. The Chios Massacre of 1822, the Psara Massacre of 1824, and the persecution of Greeks in Asia Minor and other regions during the Greek War of Independence brought waves of refugees to Syra — as Ermoupolis was then known — among them wealthy merchants, sailors, and diplomats. By the time King Otto arrived in Greece in 1833, the city had already emerged as a vital commercial port and was soon to become an industrial hub.

King Otto’s Bavarian advisors quickly recognized Ermoupolis’ strategic and economic value, dispatching German experts—including architects and urban planners—to Syros. Johann Erlacher designed key landmarks, such as the pier, the lighthouse, the Quarantine Station, and the Prasakaki mansion. He also held workshops to train local craftsmen in neoclassical architectural techniques. In 1837, Wilhelm von Weiler drafted the first urban plan for the city, comprising 124 streets and 11 squares. By this time, the city’s residents were eager to embrace a European identity and break free from Ottoman influence. The neoclassical elements introduced by the German architects, complemented by interior frescoes primarily painted by Italian artists, became defining features of Ermoupolis’ architectural style.

The city’s neoclassical buildings—soaring structures with marble staircases, ornate painted ceilings in their grand rooms, elongated windows, and finely detailed corbels supporting balconies—are monuments to this era of prosperity. Public landmarks, such as the Ermoupolis Town Hall, designed by German architect Ernst Ziller between 1875 and 1891, and the Apollo Theater, created by Italian architect Pietro Sampo between 1862 and 1864, further exemplify the grandeur of the era.

Wealthy merchants and industrialists established their homes on the eastern side of Ermoupolis, around the Vaporia district. Apollonos Street, one of the area’s main thoroughfares, serves as an open-air museum of architectural styles. “In this single street, you can observe all the phases of Ermoupolis’ development: from the early neoclassical styles to the three stages of neoclassicism, which evolved rapidly during the 19th century. However, it wasn’t only the upper class that built mansions; even the middle class of Ermoupolis lived in buildings that incorporated neoclassical features. Though smaller, these homes were equally remarkable,” explains civil engineer Pavlos Chatzigrigoriou, who specializes in building restoration.

Chatzigrigoriou’s passion for the architectural heritage of Ermoupolis runs deep. A civil engineer by training, he first encountered the city during a student trip and quickly fell in love with its historical charm. Today, he lives and works in the city, restoring its most iconic buildings. Like Chatzigrigoriou, many architects and engineers have been drawn to the timeless appeal of the Cyclades’ architectural capital, eager to contribute to the preservation of this unique legacy.

Threats and Preservation Efforts

Syros continues to captivate Joseph Stefanou, Emeritus Professor of Urban Planning at the National Technical University of Athens. A native of Ano Syros, Stefanou studied architecture and urban planning in Paris before returning to Greece. In the 1970s, he began advocating for the preservation of the island’s architectural heritage. “It was the first thing on my mind when I returned. I saw the destruction—mansions were being demolished, and the new buildings were completely out of place,” he recalls. Stefanou took action, conducting surveys and documenting the island’s historic buildings while presenting proposals to local authorities to protect them. One notable success was saving the Petritzi Mansion, located in the square of the Apollo Theater, which had been slated to become a four-story parking garage. Through a free architectural study and a low-interest loan, the mansion was preserved.

During the era of Greece’s military dictatorship, modern apartment blocks were constructed in Ermoupolis, and the 1976 legislative protections for heritage buildings had significant gaps. Neoclassical architecture was dismissed as outdated at the time, and modernizing trends prevailed. “But we managed to save Syros. I believe we’re now on a path where the risks of earlier decades are no longer a concern,” Stefanou reflects.

Key milestones in preservation included the 1976 decree protecting all buildings constructed before 1923, the designation of Syros as a traditional settlement in 1978, the urban plan of 1986, and the declaration of Ermoupolis as a protected historic site in 2006. These measures significantly curtailed uncontrolled development, though many neoclassical buildings still face threats.

The collapse of a mansion on Andrea Karga Street in 2001 became a pivotal moment for Pavlos Chatzigrigoriou. Inspired by earlier efforts, he began a systematic survey of the island’s buildings and their structural conditions. This meticulous project, conducted house by house with the help of architects and engineers, became part of his doctoral research at the National Technical University of Athens in collaboration with local municipal and regional authorities. Data on 1,290 listed neoclassical buildings was compiled into a database, with all information digitized.

This methodology laid the groundwork for HERMeS (Hermoupolis Heritage Management e-System), a nonprofit organization for digital cultural heritage founded by Chatzigrigoriou. HERMeS won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2015 and has since become a model for cultural heritage documentation worldwide.

The Challenges of Preservation

“When there are so many buildings, the biggest challenge is repair and maintenance. Many structures in Ermoupolis are at risk of collapse today due to neglect. However, the situation isn’t as dire as it was 15–20 years ago. Still, given the way society and the economy are evolving, the only way to save them is for the buildings to generate income—unless the state provides support for their upkeep. There’s no institutional framework or systematic planning in place. Legislation needs to change, and there must be tangible support for these buildings. There are too many of them to be turned into museums or cultural centers. Most are privately owned; they were always homes and a part of people’s everyday lives. Locals are often uneasy about them being converted into hotels,” explains Pavlos Chatzigrigoriou.

Joseph Stefanou agrees that subsidies should be offered for the restoration of these mansions. Through the Syros Institute, which he founded, he is preparing a nomination to have Ermoupolis and Ano Syros designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites—a recognition that would greatly enhance their level of protection.

Private interest in restoring these buildings has increased, but is it enough to save Syros’ neoclassical treasures? Restorers Angeliki Kechagia and Yiannis Bekos specialize in restoring ceiling frescoes and murals and conserving neoclassical mansions. “In recent years, there’s been more activity in buying and selling properties, which has led to greater interest in restoring neoclassical buildings. People are also more inclined to save them because they’ve become more aware of their value,” says Angeliki. “We love it when all the original elements of a house are preserved because each detail complements the others. The final aesthetic result is cohesive—you can’t view these elements in isolation,” adds Yiannis.

Nor can the buildings themselves be seen in isolation, emphasizes Pavlos Chatzigrigoriou. “They are in dialogue with one another, reflecting how craftsmen and artisans shared knowledge between projects, how ideas and techniques evolved. Many elements are interconnected because buildings have always been, and continue to be, works in progress.”

New Life in Old Shells

Today, the former home of Chian merchant and politician Nikolaos Prasakakis houses the Cyclades Chamber of Commerce, the residence of industrialist Velissaropoulos serves as the headquarters of the Cyclades Labor Center, and the mansion of Smyrna-born merchant Eustratios Petritzis is home to the Lyceum of Greek Women in Syros. Across Ermoupolis, dozens of buildings are being adapted to modern uses, embodying an idea expressed in the book The Urban Planning of Ermoupolis (2003), edited by Iosif and Ioulia Stefanou: “It has become clear that, beyond their physical shells, the architectural heritage of a place—and its role in shaping its identity—also relies on maintaining the functional use of its buildings. Contemporary approaches are founded on a balanced triad: shell, use, and user. This balance helps dissolve the long-standing polarization between preservation and development. To sustain our architectural heritage, it must remain alive—not fossilized relics or poor imitations.”

A shining example of this principle is the Historical Museum of Ermoupolis, which opened its doors to the public this past summer. The restoration of the Rethymni Mansion, built in 1840, took over 30 years. Through exhibits donated by local families, the museum showcases the history and folklore of the city, with a special focus on the high bourgeoisie that shaped Ermoupolis from the 19th to the early 20th century. The museum aspires to be a living cultural hub, hosting events and activities throughout the year to foster a deeper connection between the local community and its history.

HERMeS, a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultural preservation, supports this vision by transforming its digital building registry into an educational tool. Both locals and visitors can discover the importance of conservation while exploring the stories of these historic buildings. The organization has launched a pilot program featuring QR codes on six of the city’s most significant buildings. These codes link to digital pages offering a wealth of historical information, interior photographs, and personal stories written by Syros residents. Soon, 100 buildings in Ermoupolis will have plaques with QR codes, providing visitors and locals with a deeper understanding of the architectural history that surrounds them.

At the Kois Mansion, visitors can use a tablet to explore the living room, admire the vibrant and intricate ceiling frescoes, and even select music on a vintage radio. “This isn’t a museum; it’s an experience of life as it once was,” says Stavros Kois. Each of Ermoupolis’ 1,290 neoclassical buildings holds countless fascinating stories. But above all, these buildings must remain standing, preserving their elegance and grandeur, so that we can continue to hear their tales and create new ones.