Regardless of the day, Xenokratous is a beautiful street. On the slopes of Lycabettus Hill, near Dexameni Square, the Gennadius Library, and the American School of Classical Studies, this tranquil tree-lined road intersected by public stairways offers stunning city views. A stark contrast to the bustling center just a short distance away, it retains a historic charm that still justifies its old nickname: “The Beautiful Place”. However, Fridays are particularly special, as Xenokratous becomes a vibrant marketplace where shoppers can find exceptional local products. What’s more, the street is home to several of Athens’ most cherished restaurants, wonderful eateries that have stood the test of time.

Friday Morning at the Farmers’ Market

The scent of freshly picked flowers that decorate Kostas’ market stall fills the air. He personally gathers wild greens from the mountains and grows his own vegetables, including both broccoli and cabbage. He is just one of the many dedicated farmers who set up their stalls early every Friday morning, continuing a tradition that dates back to 1939. Today, the market boasts a wide array of fresh produce, including tangerines, oranges, purple carrots, kale and unique varieties of mushrooms. 

Panagiotis Bakos’ stall is a must-visit; it offers everything from fresh shiitake and king oyster mushrooms to the rare “lion’s mane” variety with its distinct meaty texture, all grown in Arcadia at his family’s farm. Nearby, Antonis Triantafyllopoulos proudly displays a selection of exquisite Greek cheeses, many of which are difficult to find even in specialty stores. His inventory includes rare Aegean varieties such as the skotyri or the “Homer Trilogy” from Ios’ renowned Niotiko dairy, along with volaki from Andros, authentic spicy kopanisti from Mykonos, and aged graviera from Naxos. He also stocks fresh butter from the Tositsa Foundation.

“It was my dream to seek out and bring to market the best products our country has to offer,” says Triantafyllopoulos, a former journalist who switched careers to pursue this passion. These days, he can be found at various farmers’ markets across Athens, including those at Xenokratous and Neos Kosmos. A passing customer calls out “I grew up in a small village, and these cheeses remind me of home,” which puts a smile on Triantafyllopoulos’ face. “Nostalgia and taste,” he calls back, “what a perfect combination!”

Restaurants That Feel Like Home

For over a century, Filipou has been a staple of the neighborhood. Established in 1923 by Konstantinos Filipou as an icehouse and a coal shop, it later became a humble taverna famous for its homemade wine; the taverna’s wine even won a gold medal in 1935. Over time, the venue established a reputation as a classic Greek eatery, known for its traditional slow-cooked dishes, including lentil soup and bean stew, which remain customer favorites. Today, Patricia Filipou and her daughters Cynthia and Marianna continue the family legacy, ensuring that every meal is prepared with the same care and attention to detail. Regulars treat it as their second home, often enjoying plates of pastitsio or moussaka in the quiet company of a newspaper or book.

Apostolos Gerodimos, owner of another beloved classic, To Omorfo, understands what such eateries represent to their faithful patrons. “During one renovation, a number of customers came by, anxious that we would change something about the place. Of course, I didn’t, nor do I ever intend to – I feel I don’t have the right to,” he says. Founded in 1936 by an Epirus native from Konitsa, the restaurant initially operated as a small café-taverna before moving to its current location in 1964. It was later taken over by the Gerodimos family, first by Vasilis and his wife Chrysa, and later by their son Apostolos, who practically grew up in the kitchen.

“I have a photo of the restaurant from when there were no apartment buildings around – Lycabettus was still a quarry, and the area was a grazing ground, which is why it was called ‘Goat Fields’ or ‘Sheep Fields,’” Apostolos recounts. The restaurant was a favorite among politicians and artists, including Melina Mercouri, Jules Dassin and Kostas Roussos. Many classic Greek films were shot along Xenokratous Street as well, with local children appearing as extras. “Xenokratous still has a neighborhood feel and a real sense of urban elegance,” Gerodimos says.

The restaurant’s menu varies, drawing on a range over 150 traditional Greek dishes that rotate daily. You might find anything from slow-cooked lamb with potatoes to spanakorizo (spinach rice), Kastoria-style baked beans, chicken soup with orzo, veal with zucchini in avgolemono sauce, or homemade pies from Epirus. The only oil used is olive oil, and the next day’s menu is only decided the night before, based on the freshest ingredients available.

Café de Paris or Nigiri?

One of the oldest and most esteemed French restaurants in Athens, L’Abreuvoir has remained a favorite for decades. Where else can you enjoy an authentic entrecôte Café de Paris with crispy matchstick fries, steak tartare, tournedos Rossini, onion soup, escargots de Bourgogne, rustic coq au vin, or sole meunière, all served with the elegant rituals of classic French dining? Over the years, it has hosted countless celebrities, including Omar Sharif, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Aristotle Onassis and Maria Callas. Established in 1965 by French-educated Alexis Kotsis and his wife Gianna, it remains in the hands of their children, Spyros and Claire, who continue its legacy. Be sure to order the chocolate soufflé in advance – it takes time to prepare, but it’s worth every minute.

Kiku, one of Athens’ pioneering Japanese restaurants, has moved from Dimokritou Street to a new home on Xenokratous. The venue’s warm ambiance sets the stage for an innovative menu that blends traditional nigiri and rolls with creative influences from global cuisine. Pair your meal with a handcrafted cocktail or, even better, choose from their extensive selection of saké.