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Oikonomou
© Christina Georgiadou
Petralona lies between Thiseio and Tavros, just beneath the slopes of Philopappou Hill. Its name literally means “stone threshing floors,” a nod to the many open-air threshing grounds that once dotted the area before urbanization. Older generations knew it as Katsikadika, after the goat herders who lived and worked here. Today, the district is a patchwork of mid-century apartment blocks and low houses, old storefront signs fading under the sun, and new creative ventures. Longtime residents mix with newcomers, and cafés, tavernas, restaurants and street-food counters set the pace of daily life. Here, traces of old Athens coexist with signs of a city in transition. And every time we wander through Petralona, the streets – and our mood – lead us somewhere different.
Rantevou
© Nikos Karanikolas
Rantevou – and its generous meze – has become a go-to gathering spot in Petralona. It is a small, lively place where flavor meets the neighborhood’s easygoing atmosphere. The menu leans toward Eastern Mediterranean comfort food: crisp, classic falafel; creamy hummus; a fragrant Lebanese cheese dip; and a spicy chicken biryani with real depth. The grilled hot soutzouki (spicy cured sausage) deserves special mention; it is bold, aromatic and unapologetically fiery. If you prefer something more traditional, go for the squid giouvetsi, the baked potato with yogurt, or a richly layered dakos. -M.P.
85 Kallisthenous, Merkouri Square
Tel. (+30) 210.347.7701
Hanky Panky
Athens may be full of burger joints, but truly well-balanced burgers made with quality ingredients remain surprisingly rare. Hanky Panky’s smash burger firmly belongs among the few that matter: a soft, buttery brioche bun that gently collapses in your hands; a double patty with just the right fat ratio and delicately caramelized edges; cheddar; pickled onion; and a house-made mayonnaise that brings it all together. It’s also worth noting that the mind behind this little triumph on Merkouri Square is chef and co-owner Grigoris Kikis of the Michelin-starred Hervé. -G.P.
1 Dinocharous
Tel. (+30) 210.345.3783
Oikonomou
© Christina Georgiadou
It may have changed hands, and on some days you’ll hear more English than Greek drifting through the room, but this historic Athenian mageireio remains a staple for simple, well-cooked food. From the trays and pots that have fed generations come the same familiar flavors: a hearty wild-greens pie with thick, crisp filo; rustic cabbage-leaf dolmades; slow-cooked briam-style vegetables; silky fava; rooster braised in wine with thick pasta; and that famously tender goat with oven potatoes that soak up every bit of the meat’s richness. Bonus points for the wine list, which offers plenty of labels at fair prices. -G.P.
32 Kydantidon
Tel. (+30) 210.346.7555
Sole Giaguaro
© Angelos Giotopoulos
Sole Giaguaro
© Angelos Giotopoulos
Sole Giaguaro brings an elegant Italian touch to Petralona, thanks to chef Giovanni Scaraggi, who imports select ingredients from his hometown of Bari and other corners of Italy and blends them with ideas and flavors gathered from the countries where he has lived and worked. The result is his own fusion of tradition and creativity, expressed in a menu that changes with the seasons.
Among the standout autumn dishes: Roman-style croquettes filled with braised oxtail, served over caramelized cauliflower; handmade goat’s-cheese gnocchi prepared in the open kitchen and paired with oven-roasted pumpkin and house-made crème fraîche, finished with a crunchy, lightly spicy mix of pumpkin seeds and spices; and ravioli stuffed with ricotta, pecorino and fresh truffle, plated with chanterelles in a fragrant mushroom broth. And of course, the indulgent sweetbreads risotto, a dish the chef loves and brings back again and again. -A.S.
66 Troon
Tel. (+30) 210.347.8008
Hervé
Hervé
Despite its Michelin distinction and fine-dining ambitions, Hervé delivers the experience with a light, accessible touch. The action unfolds around the open kitchen and the bar, where couples, groups, or solo diners enjoy warm, attentive service in a space that feels authentic and refreshingly unpretentious. Subtle electronic beats give the room a contemporary pulse, while the sight of each dish being assembled right before your eyes heightens the anticipation of every bite.
The chefs work with striking precision and passion, offering a culinary experience that balances technical excellence with sheer pleasure. From start to finish, the progression of dishes is confident and cohesive, while the sommelier’s pairings – drawing from both Greek and international vineyards – deepen and round out the meal with remarkable harmony. -M.P.
170 Trion Ierarchon
Tel. (+30) 210.347.1332
Treli Rodia
If you start counting the framed photos on the walls, you’ll probably give up halfway through – if not sooner. And you’ll have covered some ground: from Venizelos, Castoriadis, Katrakis and Ferris to the Stones, Dylan and Elvis; from Belmondo to the cast of Beverly Hills, 90210; and from Muhammad Ali to Nikos Galis. Every wall in this beloved tavern on Kydantidon Street is covered with faces and film stills, offering endless conversation starters – at least until the food arrives.
Begin with the cumin-scented, peppery mutton meatballs, which pair particularly well with the fried potatoes topped with grated myzithra cheese from Vytina. Trout lovers should take note: whether fresh or smoked, sourced from small producers, it appears in several dishes, either as staples or rotating specials. Another must is the slow-cooked village rooster in tomato sauce – rich, aromatic, and utterly comforting. -A.S.
39 Kydantidon
Tel. (+30) 211.002.2307
Aphaia
© Angelos Giotopoulos
Conveniently located between Thiseio, Gazi and Petralona, Aphaia is a fresh, easygoing mezedopoleio, perfect for laid-back gatherings with friends. On the corner next to the historic Poulopoulos hat factory, with the trains rumbling up and down the bridge across the street, you can enjoy mushroom kontosouvli (slow-roasted skewer-style mushrooms) served with sweet potatoes; handmade peinirli topped with kavourmas; fava with caper berries; or indulgent paccheri pasta with minced meat and pecorino cream from Amfilochia. -G.P.
1 Ethras
Tel. (+30) 216.800.4474
Line
© Angelos Giotopoulos
This year, Line climbed to the 8th place on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Housed in a striking, high-ceilinged space in Kato Petralona – formerly a contemporary gallery – the bar is fuelled by the restless experimentation of Vasilis Kyritsis, Nikos Bakoulis and Dimitris Dafopoulos. They ferment their own wines from pomegranate, apple and even honey, brew their own beers, and push for minimal waste by creatively repurposing leftovers. Their signature cocktail list is consistently surprising. Case in point: the Delusional Margarita, a playful twist on the classic made with reposado tequila, mustard, ketchup, potato water and spices. -G.P.
Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.
37 Agathodemonos
Tel. (+30) 210.342.1311
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