Plakias

Hit the waves

This cheerful coastal village with a few resorts is pleasant enough, but it’s the coast to its east that is the real draw. The beaches of Damnoni, Ammoudi and Schinaria are simply gorgeous. With shallow azure waters, shingle and sand, this is beach serenity with just the right amount of comfort; all the beaches have sunbeds and tavernas nearby. Damnoni’s unique selling point is top-of-the-range water sports, including canoeing, diving, windsurfing and yachting, offered by the excellent Hapimag resort (Tel. (+30) 28320.300.00).

ancient EleUtherna

Across eras

This impressive archaeological park sprawls down a picturesque ridge with well-organized, sign-posted paths and an official EU hiking trail. Archaeological discoveries made here confirm Homer’s descriptions of funeral rites, Patroclus’ pyre and Achilles’ ornate shield as accurate reflections of pre-Classical Greek culture.

Eleutherna flourished from the Geometric through to the Archaic periods (9th-6th c. BC). It was also prosperous in the Hellenistic (323-68 BC) period and survived into Roman, Byzantine and Venetian times. Main attractions here include the Orthi Petra necropolis; public buildings; private houses; a 2,200-year-old stone bridge; and a traditional water mill. Along the way, you’ll find temples, tombs, fountains, reservoirs, quarries, Byzantine chapels and a defensive tower. The site’s museum opened just three years ago. – John Leonard

Arkadi Monastery

Symbol of freedom

A place of pilgrimage, it was here during the 1866 Cretan revolt against Ottoman rule that more than 900 people – the majority women and children – sought refuge. After a three-day battle, surrounded by Turkish forces and on the order of the abbot, the Cretans ignited their store of gunpowder, in one last desperate act of defiance. They killed themselves, and many of their attackers, rather than surrender.

While their self-sacrifice did not win the battle, it brought worldwide attention to the cause of Cretan independence, and eventually helped lead to Crete’s unification with Greece. The monastery’s most renowned building is its 16th-century Venetian church, the facade of which survived the events of 1866. Spending time inside its ornate interior, surrounded by icons, is a moving experience.

Preveli

Tropical scenery

Natural beauty and inspiring history come together at Preveli, with its ancient monastery perched high above the Libyan Sea. Below is a palm tree-lined beach with sun loungers and a couple of cafés. Exploring the gorge, with yet more palms, is fun and a dip in the river is refreshing.

Dating from the Middle Ages and active in rebellions against the Ottomans in the 19th century, Preveli Monastery is better known today for its WWII exploits. Here, hundreds of Allied soldiers who had evaded capture after the fall of Crete in June 1941 were spirited away to Egypt by submarine from the shore below. The soldiers’ escape was made possible by the monks and local people who risked their lives for them.

Mount Psiloritis

Mighty, majestic and mysterious

Crete’s highest mountain, Psiloritis dominates the eastern edge of the regional unit of Rethymno. In ancient times, people climbed up to leave offerings at the sanctuary on the peak; today, the Chapel of Timios Stavros (“Holy Cross”) stands here. The view from the peak is breathtaking, particularly in winter, when the mountain is covered in snow.

The 2456m summit can be reached from either the south or the north.  The shortest and easiest route to the top, called “Strata of Psiloritis,” takes two hours and begins at Lakos Mygerou (1580m). Recently created, this trail is well-marked and is paved with stone slabs for easy footing. Another well-known route to the summit follows the E4 path from the Nida Plateau.

Anogia

Music and resistance

More than 700m above sea level on Mt Psiloritis, this village has a poignant history. Destroyed by the Turks for its resistance to their rule in the 19th century, and by the Germans in World War II, Anogia is synonymous with heroism and sacrifice. This is a place where memory runs deep. Perhaps that is why it’s at the heart of the history of Cretan music.

Anogia-born Nikos Xylouris (1936-1980), one of Crete’s most famous lyra players, elevated a local folk music tradition to national and international prominence. His birthplace, the Nikos Xylouris House, is now a small museum, with posters, photographs and memorabilia.

Don’t miss the Museum of Grylios showcasing the moving work of Alkiviades Skoulas (1902-1996) – who, in his old age, became a painter and woodcarver. In the lower town, the village’s rich handicraft tradition is obvious in the embroidery for sale in the stalls off Livadi Square.

GOOD FOOD GUIDE

GOULES, GOULEDIANA

Owner/chef Kostas Chamogiorgakis has created a truly remarkable restaurant at Goules. Kostas’ inspired take on traditional Cretan cuisine draws diners from around the world. Rooster braised in wine with homemade pasta, and pork with honey and thyme, are just two of the delights on offer. Tel. (+30) 698.366.1503

MOSCHOVOLIES, MERONAS

This traditional taverna run by the Moschonas family uses the freshest local produce from their own farm to create specialties that include eggplant with feta and tomatoes, and slow-cooked pork with mountain herbs. Tel. (+30) 28330.225.26

ARKOUDENAS GARDEN, EPISKOPI

Popular and busy, Arkoudenas Garden is a delight. Owner Giorgos and his mom Angeliki use ingredients from their farm. Giorgos’ own crunchy and delicious 49-ingredient salad (a Cretan diet all to itself), and the succulent lamb with rice cooked in the juices of the meat (often served at Cretan weddings) are hard to beat. Tel. (+30) 28310.616.07

ILIOMANOLIS, KANEVOS

This taverna (and its cook Maria Iliaki) have put the village of Kanevos on the tourist map. They serve more than 25 different stews made in the tsikali (the local word for pot) every day, using seasonal ingredients and generous lashings of olive oil. Ask for the lamb with askordoulaki (tassel hyacinth bulbs), which is absolutely unforgettable. Tel. (+30) 28320.510.53

STROFI TIS GEFSIS, VYZARI

This taverna, around for 37 years, serves solid classics like sizzling goat; fried or roast rabbit with potatoes, greens or rice; braised rooster; and lamb. Manolis, a priest, and his wife Eleni cook up locally sourced meat with whatever grows in their garden: home cooking at its purest. Tel. (+30) 28330.412.58

AVGENAKIS’ KAFENEIO, SPILI

You’ll find traditional kafeneia (coffee houses) in villages across Crete. The look is always the same: a bar in the corner, a stove in the middle, and all the chairs facing the door – to let patrons check out who’s coming in. You’ll see photographs of Eleftherios Venizelos or the owner’s family. In the past, such places often doubled as barbershops, post offices, general stores, or even a tailors’, as in the case of the kafeneio of Giorgis Avgenakis. It no longer makes Cretan costumes, but the ofti (baked) potatoes are delicious. Tel. (+30) 28320.220.29

CRETA CAROB

Full of flavor

While Crete is full of carob trees, carob pods were traditionally used as animal feed, although a few old-timers still remember eating them during the food shortages in World War II. Today, the Creta Carob company at Argyroupoli produces dozens of products with a flavor strongly resembling raw cocoa. Different parts of the pod are used to produce syrups, bars, spreads, cookies, jams, pastas, different types of flour and even soaps.

KLADOS WINERY

Great grapes

Off the beaten track near the village of Panormos, the Klados Winery, one of the region of Rethymno’s few commercial wine producers, cultivates the indigenous Vidiano grape to produce wine with lemony green hues and aromas of peach and apricot, refreshingly dry and a perfect match for seafood. Look for it (the bottles carry the winery’s distinctive hawk logo) in local tavernas and supermarkets.