In the bustling flea market on Ifestou Street, visitors can find black-and-white photographs and vintage postcards capturing Monastiraki Square in the early 20th century. One such photograph, which captures Areos Street and a portion of the Roman Library of Hadrian, was taken from a window of the Ottoman mosque in the square. This iconic building, formerly the Tzistarakis Mosque, a remnant of the Ottoman era, is my first stop.

Crossing the cobblestones of Monastiraki Square, I step inside this historic structure which, after Greece’s independence, served as a barracks, a prison and a storage facility before being restored in 1915 by archaeologist Anastasios Orlandos to house the then newly established Museum of Modern Greek Culture. I explore the exhibits, pausing by the window overlooking Areos Street. While the view has changed over time, the road itself remains, inviting visitors to uncover the layers of Athens’ history.

Back outside, I pass tourist shops on the right and the Roman Library of Hadrian on the left. This magnificent site, established by Emperor Hadrian between 130 and 132 AD, was opened to the public in 2004 after extensive excavations and restorations. Its grand scope makes it a favorite among visitors. I continue uphill to No. 10 Areos Street, where 18 meticulously restored 19th-century buildings spanning 4,000 square meters now make up yet more of the newly expanded Museum of Modern Greek Culture. This unique institution is dedicated to preserving and celebrating Greece’s tangible and intangible cultural treasures.

The neighborhood, bordered by Adrianou, Areos and Kladou Streets, is a tapestry of various eras and styles. Among its highlights are remnants of a Late Roman wall; the Byzantine Church of Aghios Thomas; and the gate and staircase of the Chomatianos-Logothetis mansion. Once the home of a British consul during Ottoman rule, the mansion is rumored to have been the site where Elgin prepared the Parthenon Sculptures for shipping. The nearby Church of Aghios Elissaios holds a special place in Greek literary history; it was here that Alexandros Papadiamantis, often called the “Saint of Greek Literature,” chanted during all-night vigils. Surrounding these landmarks are later structures featuring elements of Bavarian-Ottoman design and traditional folk architecture, providing further glimpses into Greece’s layered history.

The museum

The museum’s human-centered approach invites visitors to step into the living history of modern Greece, offering a window into the identities and daily lives of its people. I wander through the interconnected buildings, guided by my curiosity, but for those who prefer a more structured experience, a detailed map guides visitors through the museum’s carefully curated spaces. Each display feels like a time capsule, showcasing a vibrant mix of artifacts – travel mementos, cultural touchstones and heirlooms that seem to whisper stories of the lives that once surrounded them. Interactive digital installations and visual aids enrich the experience, transforming each exhibit into a living narrative.

From lively festivals and shadow puppet performances to the warm hum of traditional coffeehouses, the rhythm of communal life is captured here in the museum. Handcrafted looms, intricate embroidery, jewelry and even vintage cooking tools bring the essence of Greek homes to life. Fashion accessories and traditional costumes from various eras round out this tapestry of cultural heritage. Rather than a static collection, the museum feels alive, a place where the ordinary has been transformed into the extraordinary and where history feels personal, tangible and deeply human.

This journey through time can be rounded off with a visit to the museum’s café, set in an inner courtyard surrounded by the buildings housing its collections. I take a moment there to catch my breath before stepping back into the present day.

Still in a mood for exploration, I zigzag my way to Dioskouron Street, next to the archaeological site of the Roman Agora. Built by the Romans in the 1st century BCE, this marketplace was strategically located between the Acropolis – Athens’ most significant religious and symbolic landmark – and the Ancient Agora, the heart of the city’s commercial and political life.

A few steps further, at the intersection of Dioskouron and Polygnotou streets, a new museum, dedicated to the life and work of the Greek Nobel laureate poet Odysseas Elytis, opened its doors a few months ago. The Elytis House Museum allows visitors to engage with the poet’s simple lifestyle and his perception of art. His literary works – both poetry and prose, his translations, his visual artwork and his numerous musical compositions offer rich material for exploration. At the same time, the poet’s personal life is vividly presented through photographs, texts, and audiovisual material. 

At first glance, I am struck by the intimate image I get of Elytis’ workspace: a narrow desk with his typewriter and glasses beside it, a dark wooden bookshelf overflowing with books, and a small wooden two-seater sofa of distinctly Skyrian design, the last draped in a white crocheted throw. Next to the couch, a single armchair stands beside a small table. The walls above the sofa are adorned with paintings gifted by artists such as Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Yannis Tsarouchis and Nikos Nikolaou, lending warmth to the space and evoking the atmosphere of Elytis’ Skoufa Street apartment, where he lived and worked for three decades until his death.

Although the “Elytis House” in Plaka is small, it exudes a quiet dignity, drawing visitors into the essence of his poetry. In this humble setting, one can truly feel the full power of his art and understand its connection to his life.