I Taverna tou Dori kai tis Natasas 

This is the kind of gem that food lovers dream of: slightly off the beaten path, beloved by locals, and run by someone who cooks from the heart. That someone is Theodoros Vatitsis, a man with an instinctive feel for flavor and a gift for the slow braise.

Behind the scenes, a modest electric oven hums away, packed with covered casseroles of local meats. A standout: the lamb shoulder, so tender it slips from the bone. But the dish to order here is the tongue: braised simply with a bit of salt until it’s velvety and rich. Served in thick, unadorned slices, it’s not flashy, but don’t be deterred by the name. This is nose-to-tail dining at its most approachable: pure, delicate meat, with none of the texture issues that might put off the uninitiated. A few vegetarians were at our table, so we snapped up their portions as well. On the side, you get “piperákia bakálika,” small, bright-green local peppers from Serres, similar to Spain’s pimientos de padrón. They’re fried until blistered, then hit with sea salt and a splash of vinegar.

Marina 

Marina is the gold standard for a meal of beautiful fresh fish or seafood. Located right at the gateway to the Kassandra peninsula in Halkidiki – just across the canal from Nea Potidea – this elegant seaside restaurant offers front-row views of fishing boats gliding in and out of the harbor. On the west coast of the peninsula, it’s perfectly positioned to soak in the late afternoon sun. 

The setting is modern and refined, with floor-to-ceiling glass that brings the sea right to your table. But it’s not just about the view; the food is also exceptional. Alongside the perfectly grilled catch of the day, you’ll find refined, contemporary takes on Greek seafood: sea bass tartare, yellowfin ceviche, and red mullet carpaccio all deliver bright, clean flavors that showcase the quality of the ingredients. There’s plenty for shellfish lovers, too: oysters, scallops, and indulgent seafood risottos and pastas round out a menu that strikes a balance between classic and modern.

Marina is less than an hour’s drive from Thessaloniki. If you set out early, you can make a full day of it exploring the Kassandra peninsula. Head all the way south for a swim in the crystal-clear waters at Paliouri (about 45 minutes from the restaurant), or unwind at the Thermal Spa Center in Agia Paraskevi, where you can soak in sulfur-rich waters while taking in sweeping views of the Aegean. 

For a coffee, Afitos (20 minutes south), built on a cliff overlooking the gulf of Toroni, is famously charming.

Pestrofes 

At this rustic chalet in the mountains of Ano Poroia, it’s all about trout. The fish is well liked in Germany, and Dimitris Theodorakelis developed quite a taste for it while living there. When he returned to Greece, he opened a trout farm and a restaurant, with the dream of making it the “King of fish. 

 

 

 

 

 

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Grilled and served simply, the fish – super fresh from his own tanks – is flavorful, delicate, and perfectly cooked. Today, the tradition continues under the care of his children, Dimitra and Giorgos, and Giorgos’ wife, Eleni Achlati. Together, they’ve carried the legacy into a new era, honoring the classic preparations while introducing more refined offerings. The menu now includes a silky trout chowder and a beautifully subtle house-smoked trout, lightly smoked to preserve its clean, nuanced flavor and velvety texture. Smoked trout is something of a Greek standard, especially in the north, where trout farms often package their own. But here, it’s elevated. On a lucky day, you might even find trout caviar, large, golden pearls with taut skins and a briny, luxurious pop. A rare treat.

 

 

 

 

 

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The restaurant itself, nestled in a forest above the village, is a refuge when the summer heat sets in. At the base of the Belles mountain range, it’s always a few degrees cooler Tables sit in deep shade under plane trees, beside the trout tanks, accompanied by the gentle sound of running water.

Pestrofes is an hour and a half north of Thessaloniki. Lake Kerkini and the pelican observation tower are just 20 minutes away from here. You could also stop in Rodopoli (15 minutes from Ano Poroia) to visit Hasapaki (“The Little Butcher”: toxasapaki.gr); butcher Nassos Kokonas has excellent products from buffalo raised on Lake Kerkini’s shores. In Rodopoli, you’ll also find the exquisite work of silk farmer and artisan creator Anna Kaltsidou at Koukouli (Tel. (+30) 697.159.2242). Her eco-printed scarves, shawls, and accessories are one-of-a-kind works of art. She grows her own silk from start to finish, even raising the silkworms herself, and prints each piece using foraged leaves.