My culinary journey began with the photographs of Christian Diener. His exhibition, Journey to Ios – currently on view at the Varinos Residence in Hora, presented under the auspices of the local municipal authority, who invited us to experience the island firsthand – offers a window into a very different era.

His images capture shaded courtyards and long communal tables where locals and travelers once gathered to share time-honored flavors: tomatoes with capers, creamy cheeses, olives, and slow-roasted lamb. Diener lived on the island in the 1970s and ’80s with his wife and daughter, during a time when Ios had become a haven for hippies and intellectuals. Back then, the landscape was greener, and the terrain more fertile; some elders even speak of a river that used to run through the island.

Today, although tourism has inevitably transformed parts of its character, Ios continues to produce exceptional local goods: olives, figs, honey, capers, herbs and wild aromatics, as well as its celebrated cheeses and dairy products.

These stories and flavors are the heart of a slower, more immersive way to experience Ios – one offered by the cycling group Ios Adventure-Ios Paths, whose guided rides combine oral histories with sweeping landscapes. It’s a journey of taste, memory, and rediscovery.

The Exceptional Cheeses of Ios

While exploring the northern side of Ios, we visited Diaseli, a family-run creamery where modern techniques meet time-honored recipes. Here, the art of traditional cheesemaking is still very much alive. We were already familiar with the award-winning Niotiko dairy, which also operates in the area. Their milk comes from free-range goats, sheep, and cows that graze on a coastal plain near Manganari.

All their cheeses are excellent, but ksino truly stands out. This tangy, creamy marvel, made from free-range mountain milk, balances a refreshing bite with gentle salinity. It’s traditionally used in salads, but it shines just as brightly in sandwiches, pies, or simply drizzled with honey and paired with fresh fruit.

At Diaseli, we tasted skotyri, a velvety, spreadable cheese made from a mix of goat, sheep, and cow’s milk, seasoned with pepper and throubi (wild savory). We also sampled their goat-and-sheep myzithra, a soft, milky cheese that is perfect for desserts or served with ripe summer fruit.

The Sweet Side of Ios

Ios has its own dessert traditions, most famously karpouzopita, a seasonal watermelon pie made with sesame seeds and flour, baked in a shallow tray until golden. It’s popular throughout the Cyclades, especially in Folegandros, Milos, and Kimolos. On Ios, it goes by the name mosenta, and it’s one of the island’s most delightful treats: sprinkled with sesame, cut into diamond or square-shaped pieces, and served as a classic Cycladic sweet.

You can find it at Mosenta, a grocery shop right by the port (Gialos, Tel. (+30) 22860.922.94), where it’s sold alongside other traditional specialties. Don’t miss the myzithropites – small pastries filled with fresh cheese and honey – or the pastelia (sesame-honey bars) wrapped in lemon leaves. Though simple, these sweets are bursting with character.

Don’t leave without tasting the island’s dried figs: oven-roasted, stuffed with sesame and almonds, they’re perfect with a cup of coffee or as a snack.

Local Delicacies to Savor

Tavernas across Ios serve island specialties you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. A highlight is tsimetia, zucchini blossoms filled with rice and local kefalotyri cheese, delicate and delicious.

Matsi, handmade ribbon-like noodles, and mermitzeli, a traditional orzo dish made with locally sourced meat, are just the thing after a long day at the beach.

And then there are the island’s signature pies: ladenia, a kind of olive oil-rich flatbread with tomato and onion, and kalasouna, a savory open-faced onion pie made with local sour myzithra. 

Where to Eat and Drink in Ios

Hora, the island’s main town, is one of the most picturesque in the Cyclades. Crowned by the church of Panagia Gremniotissa – arguably the perfect spot to take in the sunset – its labyrinthine alleys reveal treasures such as Kambouris (Tel. (+30) 698.599.6335), a beloved family-run taverna serving generous portions of flavorful, home-style dishes made with fresh, high-quality ingredients. Favorites include soutzoukakia (spiced meatballs), slow-cooked beef in tomato sauce with handmade pasta, and traditional kleftiko with lemony potatoes.

For something more contemporary, try Katoi (Tel. (+30) 698.344.0900), a stylish eatery offering creative meze and cocktails made with mostly locally sourced ingredients.

La Buca (Tel. (+30) 22860.914.47), your go-to for wood-fired pizzas, also has a well-curated selection of local wines.

For coffee or a light snack, head to Agora Café Bar in Pano Piatsa, housed in one of Hora’s most charming buildings. The menu features carefully brewed coffee, savory pies and tarts made with local ingredients, as well as a well curated list of low-intervention Greek wines. Stick around in the evening – you might catch a spontaneous rebetiko jam session under the stars.

Beaches, Dining, and Cultural Stops

Ios is home to 35 beaches, some easily accessible by car, others reachable only by boat. Highlights include Manganari, Aghia Theodoti, Gialos, Koumbara, Loretzaina, Psathi, and Kalamos. The most well-known is Mylopotas, where you’ll find Salt (Tel. (+30) 22860.922.17), an elegant all-day beach bar and restaurant which offers sun loungers by the sea and a standout menu curated by chef Michalis Nourloglou.

Dishes here are as artful as they are local: wood-oven flatbread with grilled peaches, spicy salami, mascarpone, and Ios honey; risotto with sun-dried strawberries and sour cheese; or wild greens baked in the oven and served with ceviche.

For a special evening, head to Grandma’s (Liostasi Hotel, Tel. (+30) 22860.921.40), where Chef Sotiris Evangelou reimagines tradition with a flair. Don’t miss the slow-roasted kid goat with wood-fired potatoes, and the sweet cheese tart made with local goat cheese, garnished with a miniature biscuit goat.

Doors (Tel. (+30) 22860.934.06), a sleek bar at the port, serves inventive cocktails and elevated comfort food by chef Gogo Delogianni – her signature meatballs are a must. For fresh fish and classic meze, Akrogiali (Tel. (+30) 22860.910.96), overlooking the port, is an ideal choice. Be sure to try the salatouri, a Cycladic specialty made with skate, spring onions, and lemon-olive oil dressing, best paired with ouzo or tsipouro.

Cap off the day at Alma Sunset Bar, where expertly crafted cocktails meet panoramic sea views.

Journey to Ios by Christian Diener is on view at the Varinos Residence in Hora through the end of September. 

Guided cycling tours with Ios Adventure-Ios Paths (Tel. (+30) 697.812.3882) are available by appointment and include stops at locations of historical and gastronomic interest.

A visit to Diaseli Creamery (Tel. (+30) 697.279.8071) is highly recommended; tours are available with advance notice.

Originally published in Gastronomos magazine.