It all began in mid-February, when the long-awaited message arrived: the destination for this summer’s cycling tour would be Central Greece. The route, stretching across mostly mountainous terrain, promised physical challenges and dramatic landscapes. We ramped up our training, and by late June, we were ready to set off. Our starting – and ending – point: Livadia.

We pedaled off on a quiet stretch of road leading to the Karakolithos Monument to the Fallen. From there, we continued along the busier road to Arachova, a bustling ski destination in winter that felt somewhat surreal in the summer heat. We climbed toward Livadia, a storm keeping pace alongside us in the distance, and stopped for food before heading to the deserted ski resort. Though the thermometer read 15°C, the wind slicing down the mountain made it feel closer to 10°C as we descended toward Amfikleia.

The following day took us to the historic Inn of Gravia. From there, we followed a peaceful riverside road that eventually led us through thick stands of fir trees. By midday, we arrived in Kaloskopi. Staying at high elevation, we passed through Mount Oiti and stopped at the mountain refuge to take in the stunning view.

Afterward, we descended to the Stromi waterfall before approaching the village of Sykia, nestled beneath a towering cliff that dominates the landscape. Following the path of the Mornos River to its artificial lake, we reached the tranquil village of Lidoriki.

Waking early the next day, we had breakfast against the view of the lake. A punctured tire delayed us slightly, but soon we were winding through the lake’s fjord-like inlets. After the dam, another friend joined our group. The heat and steep ascents tested our stamina as we climbed toward Limnitsa, and we arrived in Aspria by noon. Everything was closed – typical for a weekday in a small mountain village – so we made do with snacks to fight off hunger. When my rear tire burst, I took shelter in the shade to make repairs, waiting as the others, too, dealt with flats. By afternoon, we reached the highest point of the day’s route and were rewarded with a long descent into the welcoming embrace of Ano Hora.

From Mountainous Nafpaktia to Evrytania

We set off before dawn, crossing the stunning mountains of Nafpaktia. In Kryoneria, we stopped at a village square that felt untouched by time. At a small grocery store, Mrs. Koula offered me a loukoumi dipped in tsipouro. Alcohol and cycling don’t usually mix, but in that moment, it felt impossible to refuse such a genuine gesture of hospitality. In Perdikovrysi, we paused for coffee before descending to the banks of the Evinos River, where the next climb began.

As we pushed upward through Klepa, the road gradually revealed views of the shimmering Evinos reservoir stretching south. After the village, double-digit gradients and intense heat made the ascent challenging, but higher up, the mountain provided flatter stretches and cool springs.

When we finally reached Domnista, we made a beeline for the mini market. Sandwiches were assembled on the spot and devoured under the shade of the village square. A third climb awaited us, so the refueling was more than justified. But after Krikello, the effort of the day began to take its toll.

In the forest, a herd of deer loudly proclaimed my presence. After a series of rolling hills, the final descent into Karpenisi came like a reward as the cool air, quiet roads, and soft evening light carried us into town.

Challenging Conditions

Just before our planned departure for Velouchi, a worn gear cable forced a sudden change of plans. I bid farewell to the group, agreeing to meet them that evening in East Fragkista. My first stop was Apostolos Bouras’ bike shop, where I was his first customer of the day. He quickly replaced the damaged cable, gave the bike a once-over, and I was back on the road. I cycled alone towards Hani Mpagasaki and then started the long descent to the Megdovas River. I rested briefly at Hani Megdova, but by the time I resumed, it was already midday.

Within the first few pedal strokes, it became clear I had underestimated the heatwave. The temperature soared to 40°C, and shade was nearly impossible to find. Whenever I spotted even a sliver of it, I pulled over to cool off. Drivers passing by looked at me with disbelief as I climbed under the blazing sun. By noon, I arrived at the guesthouse, where a cold shower and a short nap helped reset my energy while I waited for the group.

From Fragkista, we descended to Lake Kremasta and the Episkopi Bridge. As we climbed toward Aghios Vlasios, a wild boar darted across the road. We treated ourselves to ice cream at Elias’ grocery store then continued to Pentakorfos for lunch, letting the worst of the midday heat pass. What followed was a stretch full of surprises: a suspension bridge, dirt roads, and steep inclines that forced us off our bikes to push them uphill. After a series of punishing climbs and dips, we finally caught a glimpse of Lake Trichonida from above. The road wound through olive groves before dropping into the village of Kenourgio. By late afternoon, we were riding in formation along the lakeshore, then climbing once again toward Thermo, this time in the dark. The final kilometer to the hotel was brutal, a steep ascent that tested our last reserves of strength. But a dive into the pool at the end made all of it melt away.

Heading southeast, we passed through Koftra, followed a dirt road to Kampos, and entered a valley dotted with kermes oak. As the temperature rose again, cycling became a battle against the elements. I found myself crouching in whatever shade I could find, squeezing under shrubs by the roadside. With temperatures well above 40°C, careful hydration with water and electrolytes was vital just to stay upright. Near a remote shepherd’s hut, I found a spindly tree offering just enough shade to rest. Kostas, the shepherd, appeared with his flock, and we exchanged a few words about the gradual abandonment of Greece’s rural landscapes. After a short pause, I said goodbye and pushed on. One more kilometer brought me to the quaint village of Simos, where I went straight to the spring. A nap on a bench revived me, and we soaked our clothes in cold water before descending again. The dry air stung our eyes and nostrils as we rode.

Eventually, we reached Chiliadou Beach, where a swim and a meal reset our systems. But the day wasn’t done. We climbed toward Teichio under a moonless sky, deep in the forest, with only our headlamps cutting through the dark. Animal eyes occasionally flashed in the beams, silent, watchful companions for the final, quiet kilometers.

Riding in the Rain

The next morning greeted us with overcast skies and distant thunder echoing from the mountains above, but our spirits remained high. We reached Tranorema at 1,000 meters altitude before arriving in Stilia. After stopping at the cool, shaded springs, we climbed to the mountain pass, followed by a fast and exhilarating descent offering stunning views. At noon, a refreshing downpour caught us at the café in Amygdalia. Once the rain eased, we continued along the main road to Amfissa. That afternoon, we enjoyed coffee at the historic Mastronikopoulos café, famous as a filming location for Theo Angelopoulos’ The Travelling Players. The day wrapped up with a feast of grilled delicacies.

On the final day, we passed through Itea and tackled the long climb to Desfina. A storm brewed ahead, urging us to pick up the pace in search of shelter. The wind was so strong that I had to pedal even downhill, and twice I was blown off the road. Then came the torrential rain. Pulling on my rain jacket, I pedaled furiously toward Distomo. Soaked to the bone, we found refuge in a café and waited out the storm. Three hours later, the skies began to clear. We mounted our bikes once more and made good time on the final stretch to Livadia, the weather still threatening. 

Just before we triumphantly reached the finish, the sun emerged once again, as if in reward. After the requisite photos by the banks of the Erkyna River and a giant celebratory ice cream, we bid farewell to Roumeli after nine unforgettable days full of cycling, experiences, and strength.