Every long journey begins with a single turn of the pedals. Ours starts on the outskirts of Agrinio, where four bicycles loaded with little more than the essentials set off towards the mountains of Western Greece. Our route, passing by Lake Stratos on the way to Arta, is far from the shortest, but it is undoubtedly one of the most rewarding. It winds through mountainous landscapes and remote villages that guard hidden treasures, such as the single-arched stone bridge of Verga spanning the Inachos River. We stop in Neo Chalkiopoulo to refill our water bottles before tackling a series of bends and climbs that eventually lead us, in the cool of the evening, to Peta, where the local cultural association’s festival is in full swing.

Arta and Ioannina

At first light, we roll downhill into a still-sleeping Arta. A stop at the town’s famous stone bridge feels almost obligatory. Immortalized in Greek folk tradition, the asymmetrical bridge is inseparable from the legend of the master builder’s wife, said to have been buried alive within its foundations so the structure would finally stand. Before the day grows hot, we are already climbing toward Rodavgi.

We exchange warm greetings with locals at the café in Platanoussa, then continue over the rolling hills and ravines of the Xirovouni range, with the Tzoumerka mountains rising across the valley. Near Kalentzi, the asphalt abruptly gives way to a road under reconstruction. Warning signs advise that only four-wheel-drive vehicles should continue. A bicycle, however, has its own advantages. Sometimes the quickest solution is simply to shoulder the bike for a few meters and keep going.

We finish the day with a hearty meal on the shores of Lake Pamvotida. The following morning begins with handmade bougatsa before we join the old Ioannina-Igoumenitsa national road. We pass through Voutsaras early and stop at Eleni’s bakery in Vrosina for a koulouri, enjoying it beside the village’s beautiful stone bridge.

From there, the route continues through dense forest along a formerly busy highway that has fallen quiet since the construction of the Egnatia Motorway. In Polydroso, a roadside café shaded by a sprawling plane tree offers the perfect place to cool off and enjoy a simple meal of eggs and salad before beginning the long descent into the welcoming landscapes of Thesprotia. The heat intensifies as we get lower towards Igoumenitsa, where we race to catch the ferry to Corfu.

Corfu

Corfu needs little introduction. Lush, elegant and effortlessly living up to its international reputation, it remains one of Greece’s most captivating islands. It is not, however, always the easiest place to explore by bicycle. Although the climbs are rarely long, the island delights in serving up brutally steep gradients that seem to appear without warning, while heavy traffic and an ageing road network demand constant attention.

Tourism has reached nearly every corner of the island, and prices reflect its popularity. Yet the island’s expansive emerald beaches rarely feel overcrowded. We ride past Aghios Georgios and Arillas on the west coast before continuing to Sidari, Roda, and finally Almyros Beach at the island’s northern tip, where we abandon the bikes for a swim. Further east, the picturesque harbor village of Kassiopi is packed with visitors and traffic, yet it still retains its elegant Corfiot charm.

Preveza

Before dawn, we pedal through the quiet streets of Corfu Town to catch the first ferry back to Igoumenitsa. Once ashore, we head south along the old national road, a broad but rather uninspiring route. We make a detour for coffee in the picturesque town of Parga. It is so crowded that we almost regret the stop, especially as we climb back uphill in the sweltering heat while a threatening storm advances alongside us.

Farther south, we leave the old highway behind and follow the coastline toward Preveza, passing vast sandy beaches. At Loutsa, we cool off with a refreshing swim as the temperature continues to rise before grabbing a quick bite to eat. From Kanali, we join a newly built, highly promising cycling path that winds through a beautiful coastal forest. By the time we reach Preveza, the town is only just beginning to wake.

Lefkada

Cyclists are not permitted through the Aktio Undersea Tunnel, so the Egnatia Motorway shuttle carries us – and our bicycles – beneath the sea before dropping us back onto the road a few kilometers later. Soon afterwards, the island’s floating swing bridge comes into view, marking the gateway to Lefkada. 

We stop in Lefkada Town for a generous breakfast and coffee, enjoying its welcoming pedestrian streets and low-rise houses. Before long, we arrive in Nidri, where it seems there are more sailboats than homes. By midday, we tackle the mountain in intense heat before descending to Vasiliki, a lively beach resort known for its windsurfing and watersports. One final surprise awaits us as we buy our ferry tickets to Fiskardo: bicycles, it turns out, travel at an extra charge.

Kefalonia

Fiskardo is one of those places that makes every few hundred meters feel like a photo stop. After filling our bottles with water, we begin climbing along the gentle slopes of the island’s northern peninsula. We admire Assos and Myrtos Beach from above, as the road hugs the cliffs, offering sweeping panoramic views. We spend the night in Aghia Efimia, which becomes our base for the final days of the journey.

The following morning, the sun is already relentless as we tackle the long climb beyond Makriotika toward the mountain shepherds’ huts. Warning signs fail to discourage us, but the steep gradients and scarce shade soon put our endurance to the test. A pause in Faraklata, the hometown of one of our companions, offers a welcome change of pace. Walking through the village and visiting his family home reveals a side of the island few visitors ever experience.

By the time we reach Argostoli, the heat has become relentless. After lunch, every kilometer feels longer than the last until Vlachata, where homemade lemonade, cold water – and then more cold water – restore both energy and spirits. As the sun begins to soften, the ride becomes almost effortless. The sea remains in view for almost the entire ride and before long I find myself singing at the top of my lungs.

The day’s final challenge arrives beyond Tzanata. Fresh spring water fills our bottles, but the double-digit gradients soon return, making chains and gears groan under the strain. A puncture and accumulated fatigue delay us further, and we eventually roll back into Aghia Efimia just after sunset – tired, dusty and completely content.

Ithaca

The next morning, we set off at first light. The route is not especially long, but Ithaca’s roads are steep. Picturesque villages, postcard-perfect beaches, the charming harbor of Kioni – everything feels touched by an almost tropical beauty. At Mprosta Aetos, we take a well-earned break at the Allou Gialou snack bar, where the cheerful, welcoming staff make us feel instantly at home. After a refreshing swim, we return to Piso Aetos in time to catch the last ferry of the day.

Our last stage is intentionally shorter. The midday heat greets us the moment we disembark at Astakos, but after a handful of final climbs the broad plain of Agrinio comes into view. There is no finish line waiting. Instead, the journey ends around a table laden with Agrinio’s famous spit-roasted meats. Our journey through Epirus and the Ionian Islands comes to an end, but the memories linger long after the final pedal stroke. Cycling transformed Western Greece from a series of destinations into a collection of landscapes, sensations and small moments that could never have been experienced at any other pace.