Kordoni

The port’s U-shaped quay consists of a narrow strip, also known as “to kordoni”, or “the shoelace,” that runs along the entire waterfront of the village, and it’s where most of its activity is concentrated. Shopping, entertainment, leisure – almost every aspect of life plays out at the water’s edge. It takes no time at all to locate all the important spots and to become familiar with the lie of the land.

For most visitors, getting to know the island starts at the pier where the ferryboat docks. Watch how the captain manages to maneuver a 150-meter ship in the 200-meter harbor mouth – it’s quite impressive. There’s almost always some ship docked here, be it a passenger ferry or a navy frigate. It’s not always pleasant as the sound of roaring engines upsets the calm of the waterfront.

The open area in the middle of the harbor, known as Mesi tou Yialou, used to be the epicenter of the community’s social life. Today it is the site of a memorial dedicated to the victims of war, and it’s still where various public events are held. Most of the rest of the harbor is ringed by a densely packed row of beautiful neoclassical houses whose ground floors are given over to tavernas, cafés and a few souvenir shops. Take a moment to examine the Mercato building, the former fish-and-meat market and an architectural jewel from the Italian occupation. Right beside it, Stratos Café is a strategic stop for coffee lovers – by this point in your travels, you’ll probably have noted the importance of coffee, either iced or hot, to the Greeks!

As you walk along the waterfront, don’t forget to look down into the water now and then; there’s a good chance you’ll spot a sea turtle. In 2009, when a new marina was built in Kaş on the Turkish coast, dozens of these wonderful creatures were displaced, and they now seek shelter in Kastellorizo’s welcoming harbor. They also come for any spare food from the seaside tavernas, although the practice of throwing them tidbits is not encouraged, not least because they become territorial about feeding grounds and may nip at people swimming in the area.

Another open area on the port leads to a cluster of businesses offering most of the services a traveler might need: there’s a taxi stand for the island’s lone taxi (Tel. (+30) 693.873.9178), the Papoutsis travel office (Tel. (+30) 22460.706.30), a single rental shop with just two motorcycles, a bakery, two supermarkets and public toilets.

As the waterfront curves, the row of houses gives way to a second opening and the Church of Aghios Georgios Pigadiou, or Saint George of the Well. There are another six churches on the island dedicated to Saint George. It’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with them, as it will help you find your way around. They are Saint George of the Island (Aghios Georgios tou Nisiou), of the Mountain (tou Vounou) and of the Field (tou Horafiou), as well as Aghios Georgios Ftochoulaki (the Poor) and Aghios Georgios tis Ro (of Ro). Back at Aghios Georgios Pigadiou, you’ll also find Remezzo, the island’s best café-bar for local sweets, a glass of beer or other refreshments.

In this small area, there’s much to learn of the island’s history, starting with the Castle of the Knights of Saint John, whose sobriquet of Castello Rosso gave the island its name. This castle features in the descriptions given by nearly all travelers who wrote of Kastellorizo. Built in the 14th century with materials from an ancient acropolis, today it consists only of a fortified courtyard and ruins of its interior space.

Nonetheless, the spot affords splendid panoramic views of Aghios Stefanos in the north, Cape Nifti in the west, and Paliokastro and Avlonia inland. You can also see many of the small islands that make up the group: Psoradia, Kalikatzaraki and its twin Aghios Georgios, Polyfados, Psomi, Koutsoumbas, Mavropini and Mavropinaki (the last three mark the border with Turkey).

Take the road past the old windmill – slated for restoration – and the churches of Aghios Nikolaos and Aghios Dimitrios to reach the Kastellorizo Archaeological Museum, housed in one of the castle’s forts. It contains finds from the island dating back to antiquity, as well as Byzantine relics, artifacts recovered from the sea, testimonials from foreign travelers, murals from the Church of Saint George of the Castle and an entire hall dedicated to the island’s folk art and culture. The ground floor focuses on maritime history.

Mandraki

The island’s second port used to be abuzz with the business of boat-building, as you can see from the slipways in the shallows used for pulling boats and hydroplanes out of the water, and from the remains of an old steam mill. Now it’s the quietest part of Kastellorizo, with just one small shipyard that only operates for boat repairs.

Mandraki has a small church dedicated to Saint Paraskevi, and a large cemetery, named after Saint Savvas, that contains the graves of locals as well as of French soldiers from WWI. The island’s only gas station is at the end of the road here, though this information is irrelevant for most visitors, as motorized transport is rarely needed here.

Horafia

Horafia, which means “fields” in Greek, is the area where the residents of Kastellorizo once had their family farms. Today, it is the island’s religious and educational center, home to the Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helena on one side of a pretty pebbled courtyard and, opposite it, the Santrape Town School and the Girl’s School (Parthenagogio).

The Town School was endowed by Loukas Santrape (1852-1911), a wealthy contractor who had worked on irrigation systems in Egypt. He was also the benefactor of the Church of Aghios Georgios in Horafia, an impressive eclectic-style edifice that was never completed but is soon to be restored.

There are two more houses of worship in the immediate area – the church of Panaghia Horafiou and that of Aghios Spyridonas, and an impressive bust of the Lady of Ro, a woman who raised the Greek flag over the islet of Ro every day for decades, affirming Greek sovereignty with her action.

Among the other buildings in Horafia is the traditional taverna Platania (Tel. (+30) 22460.492.06). Now in operation for 35 years, and one of the locations used in the film “Mediterraneo,” the taverna is presently run by two sisters and a daughter. These tireless women prepare an array of delicious home-style dishes every day, cooking up dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves), pots of goat meat, chickpea fritters and octopus in tomato sauce.

THE COUNTRYSIDE

Even though the island’s cosmopolitan harbor town tends to steal the show, the rocky countryside – rarely explored by visitors or even archaeologists – is in itself reason enough to make the trip to Kastellorizo. The sheer cliffs and craggy passes, reminiscent of the foothills of a large mountain range, mean that you’ll need to expend some effort while exploring, but you’ll be rewarded with the sight of native flora and fauna (including delightful little tortoises) and ruins from different historical periods.

Aghios Georgios tou Vounou (Saint George of the Mountain)

An ascent of some 400 steps starting at the top of the town takes you up the mountainside to the monastery, giving you a taste of the island’s wild landscape and glimpses at the remains of ancient grape stomping pits, funerary monuments and fortifications. The recently restored monastery is surrounded by a high wall, which encompasses the katholikon, cells and auxiliary spaces built around a courtyard with a pebbled floor.

The basement crypt inside the church is quite interesting and is dedicated to Saint Charalambos. If you want to look inside, you’ll need to arrange your visit with the island’s taxi driver, as he has the keys to the monastery (Tel. (+30) 693.873.9178).