On one side, the sea; on the other, towering cliffs; and around you, the ancient walls of Monemvasia – the castle town has a distinctive mystical aura year-round, but during Easter the atmosphere becomes particularly solemn and reverent. The narrow alleyways become the setting for the Epitaphios (Good Friday bier) procession, flickering candlelight fills the streets and centuries-old churches brim with worshippers. Spring breathes color and fragrance into the stone-dominated landscape, offering a soft contrast to the austere beauty of the town.

No cars are allowed in the “Stone Ship,” as poet Yannis Ritsos called his hometown. Sounds sound loud and crisp in the near silence: the whisper of the wind, the soft footsteps of pilgrims on cobbled paths, and the haunting chants of Holy Week.

For a sweeping view of Monemvasia and the sea, hike up to the Upper Town and the Church of Aghia Sofia, a 12th-century gem perched high above the settlement. Along the way, you’ll pass restored stone buildings with arches – remnants of the old quarter. A project is already underway to create a network of walking trails throughout the archaeological site, including a cable car that will soon connect the Upper and Lower Towns. Also on the horizon is the dramatic lighting of the Monemvasia Rock and the opening of the Yannis Ritsos House Museum, set for early summer.

Within the settlement, it’s worth visiting the Archaeological Collection of Monemvasia), which is housed in a 16th-century Ottoman mosque (Tel. (+30) 27320.614.03, open daily except Tuesdays, 08:30–15:30, entry €5).

Holy Week offers a unique lens through which to see Monemvasia’s many churches. On Holy Thursday, head to the Church of Aghios Nikolaos for the Service of the Holy Passion, and on Good Friday, follow the Epitaphios procession as it winds through the alleys of the Lower Town from Panagia Chrysafitissa, accompanied by the municipality’s philharmonic orchestra. The procession goes past the castle gates to the modern part of town, with boats in the harbor casting glowing lanterns across the water.

On the night of Holy Saturday, the climactic Resurrection service draws crowds to the square with the cannon, outside the Church of Christ Elkomenos, or to Panagia Chrysafitissa.