Method

Cut the larger fish (if you are using any) into medium-sized pieces, leaving the smaller ones whole. Rinse all the fish thoroughly in plenty of cold water, place them in a colander, salt them generously, and leave them for at least 1 hour to draw out the blood. Rinse very well to remove the excess salt, then drain.

In a large pot, heat half the olive oil over low heat. Add the onions, potatoes, carrots, garlic and wild celery stalks, and let them sweat gently in the oil for about 15 minutes. Do not saute them – the goal is simply to soften them lightly in the oil. Wrap the large fish pieces and the remaining smaller fish in a piece of cheesecloth, tie it securely, and lay it flat in the pot on top of the vegetables.

Add enough water to cover the ingredients and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, until the potatoes are thoroughly tender. Do not stir the soup, but skim it carefully as needed.

Remove from the heat. Transfer the cheesecloth bundle with the fish to a platter. Strain the broth and set the vegetables aside on a separate platter. Return the broth to the pot.

Pick the flesh from the fish and from as many of the smaller fish as possible, and set aside in a bowl. Blend the cooked vegetables in a food processor, gradually adding the remaining olive oil so that it becomes a creamy puree. Add as much lemon juice as desired, along with enough broth from the pot to loosen the puree slightly, and blend until fully combined. Set aside.

Return to the pot with the broth. Add as much water as needed to yield 4-5 portions and bring to a boil. Add the rice and a couple of pinches of salt, reduce the heat and cook for about 10 minutes, until the rice is half-done. Stir in the vegetable puree and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the flaked fish and cook for another 5 minutes, until the flavors have melded together. Turn off the heat and leave the pot on the warm burner.

The egg-lemon sauce: Beat the eggs in a bowl with a whisk until frothy. Mix in the lemon juice. Add the broth in small increments, mixing continuously. Once the sauce in the bowl is more or less at the same temperature as the soup, add it to the soup, gently shaking the pot to mix it in. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve in a bowl with a sprinkling of chopped dill fronds and chili flakes.

Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr