On the road to the Vlach villages, the most remote settlements of Central Zagori, amid the alpine landscape of Gyftokampos, the last thing you expect to see is a solitary house in the middle of nowhere. You might be even less prepared for River, the affectionate dog who greets visitors before they have even crossed the threshold of Free Inn Zagori. This forest refuge, with views of the peaks of Tymfi, which remain snow-capped for much of the year, is first and foremost the home of ultramarathon runner Thodoris Ziakkas. He lives alone near the Sarakatsani Stani, about 10 kilometers outside Skamneli. 

Friends call the house a “temple,” a gathering place where impromptu reggae jam sessions sometimes break out. It also operates as a small mountain guesthouse, offering a vegan breakfast and serving as a base for hiking and other outdoor activities in the area.

“This house is the place where I search for myself, but it is also an open space where I host people who want to live close to nature, get to know the mountains, go hiking, practice yoga, learn about mushrooms and take part in other activities,” says Thodoris. 

Before consciously deciding to leave the city behind and seek a different way of life in nature, he worked in the restaurant and hospitality industry in Ioannina. 

“I wasn’t a hiker or a mountaineer, and I wasn’t involved in mountain activities, apart from going wild camping in Vovousa,” he explains. “But every time I found myself in the forest, I felt that this was where I wanted to live, the place where I truly felt at home.”

Today, Thodoris – known as Teo or Akis to his friends – competes in mountain races ranging from 20 to 200 kilometers. In 2023, he completed the Dragons Trail, a 120-kilometer route across the Grammos, Smolikas and Tymfi mountain ranges. Together with a group of friends, he documented the experience in the film Chasing Dragons, with the aim of raising awareness about the environmental degradation of the region. Along the route, he passed alpine lakes, rivers and mountain trails across Epirus, pushing himself to his limits. 

“I’ll never know why I do this, why I put myself through it. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever experienced,” he says in the documentary.

Shortly before turning 40, after spending time in Vovousa and Smolikas, and living for a year and a half in a traditional Sarakatsani hut, he found the ideal place for his daily training. “I couldn’t live in a village. I have no problem with the locals; we just have different ways of thinking. Most of them are hunters, but I’m a vegetarian and opposed to hunting. Still, by now they know me and respect me,” he says.

When he isn’t running, Thodoris chops wood, tends his vegetable garden, cleans and cooks for his guests. In his free time, he plays bass, meditates, and spends time observing nature – and himself. 

“I feel genuinely moved by nature. We often fail to realize how much we receive from the earth and how little we give back,” he says.

Where to Stay

Free Inn Zagori

Free Inn Zagori has four rooms that can accommodate up to four guests each, all with private bathrooms. Rates vary depending on the number of guests and the season, but remain in line with those of a mountain refuge, at around €25-30 per person, including breakfast. Free Inn Zagori on Facebook

Where to Eat

Sarakatsani Stani in Gyftokampos

Set among pine and fir trees on land belonging to the Brotherhood of Sarakatsani of Epirus, the Stani is known for its lamb chops and spit-roasted mutton. It also serves cooked dishes such as wild boar with sweet potato, as well as local cheeses and pies.

Arnada in Dilofo

At this new taverna at the entrance to Dilofo, Alexandros and Lambros cook with local ingredients and meat from their own livestock, against the backdrop of the mountain of Tymfi. Standout dishes include mutton souvlaki, beef in tomato sauce, gardoumbakia (seasoned offal wrapped in intestines), and traditional batsaria, a savory pie made with wild greens and feta.

Skala in Vradeto

An ideal stop after a hike, Vradeto’s traditional café is decorated with Konstantina’s handicrafts. It serves home-cooked dishes such as oven-baked chickpeas, pies and a variety of meze, along with grilled meats prepared by her father, Lambros, and sweets made by her mother, Niki.

Elafi in Elafotopos

On the village square, views of Zagori’s distinctive landscape come with local meats expertly prepared by Nikos, such as Kalarrytes-style slow-cooked lamb and mutton sausage. The menu occasionally features al dente pasta dishes, which are among the restaurant’s most popular choices.