The Metsovo Way: A Model for Mountain Resilience
How Metsovo thrives against the odds...
The nicest walk is the one along the lakeside road.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
This is the season when the plane trees along Lake Pamvotida shed their leaves, carpeting the lakeside promenade in rich golden-red. Mornings grow crisp, and the first mists drift over the water at dawn. The city reveals its most archetypal self – moody, rain-washed, and slightly melancholic – and is all the more enchanting for it.
Unsurprisingly, the most beautiful walk in Ioannina is along Lake Pamvotida. Starting from the outdoor municipal gym near the junction of Karolou Papoulia and Stratigou Vogiannou Streets and continuing to Mavili Square, the walk spans about three kilometers. Along the way, you’ll pass the traffic education park, Katsari Park and the Castle, before finally reaching Mavili Square, always with the shimmering lake at your side. Try the walk at different times of day: in the morning, clouds are mirrored on the water’s surface; by the late afternoon, the last rays of the sun paint the slopes across the water a deep crimson.
Shop with handicraft works on Averof Street.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
The Archaeological Museum of Ioannina showcases the region’s rich history, from prehistoric Epirus and the Iron Age to the Hellenistic and Roman periods. One of its seven galleries is devoted entirely to the Sanctuary of Dodona, one of the most important oracles of the ancient Greek world (6 25th Martiou Square, open daily except Tuesday, 08:30-20:00, admission €6).
In the western bastion of Ic Kale, the Museum of Silversmithing, run by the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, tells the story of Epirus’ centuries-old silversmithing tradition. Exhibits explain how the craft began, including techniques used to shape the metal, and include a remarkable collection of Epirote jewelry, silverware, and ornate objects from the 18th to the 21st century (Ic Kale Fort, Acropolis of Ioannina, open daily except Tuesday, 10:00-18:00, admission €8).
The Museum of Silversmithing
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Famous is the bougatsa from Select, whether with cream or with cheese.
© Perikles Merakos
From traditional tsipouro meze to Italian flavors, hearty Metsovo-style meats, and inventive Greek cuisine, Ioannina offers plenty of culinary choices. Metsovitiki Folia (101 Averof) is the place for kontosouvli, succulent grilled meats on skewers: lamb, pork, chicken, or beef. Just down the street, Thamon (63 Averof) serves creative dishes rooted in local ingredients, such as beef with kofto pasta and galotyri cheese, or prawns in a nettle fricassee. For grilled ewe (provatina), a beloved regional specialty, locals flock to Timur Grill House (9 Christoforidou, Anatoli).
Its Kale Boutique Hotel (64 Andronikou Palaiologou) offers stylish, modern rooms inside the Castle quarter. For lakeside views, try The Lake Hotel (4 Acherontos). Meanwhile, Kamares Boutique Hotel (74 Zalokosta) offers stylish rooms in an 18th-century mansion.
Fishing in Lake Pamvotida.
© Dimitris Tosidis
Whichever road you take out of Ioannina – toward Zagori, Tzoumerka, Konitsa, or Metsovo – you’ll be rewarded with stunning landscapes. The first Zagori villages, like Asprangeloi, are less than 30 km away, while Aristi, the Voidomatis River, and the Vikos Gorge are about an hour’s drive (52 km). In Tzoumerka, the village of Pramanta, nestled beneath the peak of Stroggoula, lies about 90 minutes away. From the Pramanta mountain refuge, trails lead to the striking Kefalovriso waterfall and the nearby Melissourgoi refuge. Metsovo is 54 km from Ioannina, while Konitsa lies 68 km away.
For bougatsa, head to Select (2 Andrea Papandreou Sq.) or Polis (29 Valaioritou). Ioannina is also a great place to stock up on dairy products from the wider region. At the Mpoumpas Dairy outlet (37 Kallari), you’ll find excellent feta, graviera, and smoked Metsovone, along with house-made cured meats. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Nousias Patisserie (7 G. Soutsou), famed for its baklava.
Don’t skip the island at the heart of Lake Pamvotida. Yes, there’s the Ali Pasha Museum, the frog-leg meze, and the handful of residents, but what strikes you most is the stillness and singular atmosphere. Getting there is simple: boats depart every 30 minutes from Molos, and the journey takes just ten minutes. No cars are allowed, and the island is easily walkable (less than 2.5 km around). Explore the monasteries, visit the Ali Pasha Museum, and take your time soaking in this timeless place.
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