5 Greek Islands that Shine in September
Discover Greece’s islands in September with...
The castle of Kalamata.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
To swim in the beaches of the Messinian Gulf with fewer crowds, to explore Mt Taygetos and its natural beauty, and to enjoy a Peloponnesian city that has every reason to be proud of the quality of life that it offers its inhabitants.
Take a stroll from the city center to the lighthouse at the port and you’ll see nearly every facet of the Messinian capital. King George II Square lies at the heart of the city’s commercial center, surrounded by cafés alive with life in the afternoon. Walk along Aristomenous Street to the Kalamata Municipal Railway Park, a favorite spot for locals to jog, walk or bring their children to the playgrounds. Inside the park are old, well-preserved train cars displayed as if in an open-air museum. Continue toward the sea via Psaron Street and follow the waterfront all the way to the lighthouse, known locally as the “One-Kilometer Lighthouse” because that’s exactly how long the pier is that leads to it. From here, you’ll also enjoy a lovely view of the city.
The Victoria G. Karelias Collection of Greek Costumes features around 90 traditional garments from across Greece. It is the result of years of effort by Victoria Karelia, longtime president of the Lyceum of Greek Women of Kalamata. You’ll find all kinds of fabrics and clothing, from simple everyday wear to elaborate festive costumes and outerwear, as well as impressive jewelry, all presented in a beautifully curated exhibition (64 Stadiou, Kalamata; open daily except Mon 9:00-14:00 and reopening Wed and Sat from 17:30-20:30; admission €5).
The Historical and Folklore Museum of Kalamata houses not only tools and objects related to traditional rural life but also important archival material from the Greek War of Independence of 1821. You’ll see weapons, banners and personal belongings of heroes from that era (12 Aghiou Ioannou, Kalamata; open daily except Mon and Tue 9:00-13:00, Sun 10:00-13:00; admission €2).
Exhibits at the Archaeological Museum of Messenia come from sites around Kalamata, Messene, Trifylia and Pylia. Through ten thematic sections, the museum presents the region’s history from the Mycenaean-era construction of the Palace of Nestor and the Classical-era rise and fall of ancient Thouria to the Byzantine-era Despotate of the Morea (Benaki & Aghiou Ioannou, open daily 8:00-20:00, Tuesday 12:30-20:00; admission €10).
King George II Square
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Kalamata’s cuisine is a mix of coastal flavors and mountain influences from Taygetos, enriched by the simple traditions of Mani. At Mouria, a seaside fish taverna on the West Beach (10 Kallipoleos), try the fresh seafood, most often small fried fish, octopus stew, cuttlefish or calamari, all at good prices. For homestyle cooking, head to Vagia (48 Kallipateiras) with its breezy garden and dishes made from seasonal ingredients. Try kagianas (scrambled eggs with tomato), salted pork, and stewed zucchini shoots. For a creative twist on Messinian flavors, Versailles (46 Evangelistrias) offers dishes such as zucchini flowers stuffed with manouri cheese and chorizo or zucchini “little shoes” filled with chicken. Make sure to try the gournopoula – traditional local roasted pork with crispy skin – at Gournopoula (3 Aghiou Dimitriou, Bournias).
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Right on the seafront, on the eastern side of the town beach, lies Elite City Resort (237 Navarinou), a modern hotel with rooms, suites and villas surrounded by gardens. The Grecotel Filoxenia Kalamata (Navarinou) offers elegant, luxurious seafront rooms and a full-service spa. Another great option is Pharae Palace Hotel (Navarinou & Riga Feraiou), located right by the port, with many rooms boasting sea views.
© Konstantinos Tsakalidis
Autumn is the best season to explore Outer Mani.
© Periklis Merakos
The majestic Taygetos mountain range towers above Kalamata; it’s an ideal choice for a one-day escape from the city. The provincial road from Kalamata to Sparta via Taygetos is 60 km long and offers spectacular scenery along the way. Stop at the village of Alagonia for grilled meats, at the Taygetos Tourist Pavilion (elevation 1,350 m) for a refreshing coffee, and at Lagada Pass to admire the striking rock formations.
Look for the region’s extra-virgin olive oil and the famous Kalamata olives. Also worth bringing back are honey from Taygetos, crunchy sesame pasteli, lalaggia (crispy fried dough strips), and diples (sweet fried pastries with honey). You can find all of these at the city’s farmers’ market, which takes place every Wednesday and Saturday, as well as in grocery shops and bakeries around the center.
Now is the best time to explore Exo Mani, the stretch of coast running from Kalamata to the Laconia border before Oitylo and Areopoli. Some shops and beach bars may be closed, but that’s part of the charm! The waters are still warm for a swim at Foneas, Delfinia and Kalogria beaches, and the old town of Kardamyli is perfect for leisurely afternoon walks.
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