Island-hopping in the Cyclades without a car can often feel like trying to solve a tricky equation. Long distances between ports and main towns, infrequent public transport, and beaches tucked away off winding roads usually make a private vehicle essential. But Kea is the rare exception: a compact, well-connected island that offers all the charm of the Cyclades without the stress (or expense) of driving.

Only an hour from Attica and surprisingly budget-friendly, Kea is an ideal destination for a spontaneous summer weekend even if you’re car-free.

Lavrio, Makronisos, Kea

For those of us who never got around to learning how to drive, or simply prefer not to, summer travel can take a bit more planning. Even with a great deal on accommodation, logistics can be limiting. Fortunately, Kea makes it easy.

While expensive options exist, overall the island remains largely affordable. Ferries depart from the port of Lavrio, easily reached from Athens via KTEL Attica buses leaving from the “Nomismatokopio” metro station. There are adequate connections, with three ferries making the one-hour journey, and round-trip fares cost €28 per person.

Makronisos is visible from Lavrio. The historic island is not open to visitors, but from the deck of the ferry, you can see the buildings of the infamous camp that once served as a place of exile for thousands of Greeks during dark times. As the island fades behind, the dramatic terrain of Kea comes into view, with its iconic hills and rock formations. These stones are used to build retaining walls (terraces) that prevent erosion and create arable land. The lighthouse of Aghios Nikolaos, built in 1831 on the ruins of a temple dedicated to Poseidon, and the abandoned ship “Friendship” welcome visitors to the port of Korissia.

Swimming at the Most Popular Beaches

If you don’t drive, Korissia is an ideal place to stay, even though it’s not known for its nightlife. Nearby is the beach of Gialiskari, a small cove with emerald waters, surrounded by tamarisk and pine trees that provide natural shade for swimmers who prefer not to lug beach equipment around. After all, setting up an umbrella can be a challenge in the Cyclades due to the strong winds. The beach is a 15-minute walk from Korissia, and lively Vourkari is only 10’ further away.

Korissia also serves as a hub for public transportation. The bus stop is next to the taxi rank. Though the service is limited, it’s reliable enough to plan a beach day or afternoon stroll in the main town of Ioulida. Schedules are posted at each stop and available online on the official website of the Municipality of Kea.

The beaches accessible by local bus include Otzias, Pisses, and Koundouros. Otzias is the northernmost and largest beach on Kea. It’s sandy, with public shade structures and tamarisk trees. Pisses is the only flat area on the island, ending in another sandy beach. The only umbrellas available are those at the namesake campsite. Koundouros attracts the most visitors, as its bay is sheltered from the northern winds. The calm beach is framed by Cycladic windmills and the village, which has a permanent population of 17 residents.

Sunset in Ioulida

Just 8 kilometers from Korissia, the hillside town of Ioulida feels a world away. The road that climbs toward it is steep and winding, making the journey more suited to motor vehicles. But even drivers must leave their cars behind: no automobiles are allowed within the old village, which has been built across the slopes of Kastro and Myloi. The result? A traffic-free Cycladic acropolis with a Venetian soul: whitewashed houses, tiled rooftops, and winding paths that seem to bend time.

Once the bus drops you off at Ioulida’s taxi square, take the narrow path on the left. It leads to the home-studio of Alekos Fassianos, instantly recognizable it by the gate that has been adorned with his iconic doves. After visiting Kea in 1967, the renowned Greek painter fell in love with Ioulida and decided to purchase a residence there to work during the summer months. Over the years, this house has hosted prominent artists and painters from across Europe. The studio is open to visitors in the mornings and late afternoons, except on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays (for details, visit alekosfassianos.gr).

Continue your walk through the Hora, following the signs pointing toward the “Ancient Lion.” The first square you’ll come across along the way is that of the old town hall. The building, completed in 1902, was designed by Ernst Ziller. At its top stand terracotta statues of Hermes and Apollo.

As you explore, you’ll notice Ioulida’s urban houses. Fine examples of Kean architecture, they are distinguished by their rooftop baloustra (terracotta balustrades) atop the flat-roofed stegadia. The stegadi was the home’s main room, where the family spent most of their day.

A 10-minute walk will take you to the Ancient Lion of Ioulida. This stone-carved lion sculpture, carved into a rock opposite the town, dates back to the 6th century BC. According to legend, the lion was sent by Zeus to protect the city from threatening nymphs. Myth or not, the setting makes for one of the most dramatic sunset spots on Kea. Just remember to return before nightfall, as the trail is not lit after dark.

For Food and Drinks

We dined at To Steki (Ioulida, Tel. (+30) 22880.220.88) and sampled some of their traditional home-cooked dishes, including lemon-braised goat, spaghetti with spicy meatballs (soutzoukakia), and a freshly made zucchini pie. Be sure to make a reservation in advance.

For drinks, the terrace at the wine bar Abourkouna offered the perfect setting. It features an extensive selection of wines from all over Greece, which you can pair with a platter of local cheeses and cured meats like xirotyri (a dry, aged cheese) and loza (a Cycladic-style cured pork).

If you’re in the mood for something sweet, do not miss Tyrakeion (Ioulida Tel. (+30) 22880.228.53). Using milk from their family farm, the Mykoniatis siblings produce cheeses and dairy products that are a must-try for anyone visiting Kea. Ice cream flavors change daily depending on milk availability. Petit beurre biscuit, rose geranium, parfait cream, and light sorbets are the perfect way to end your day and your visit to the island.