Life Along Kallidromiou Street in Athens
A stroll down one of the...
Kypseli is a vibrant mosaic of people, flavors, and shops – urban yet traditional, nostalgic yet modern, multicultural, and always buzzing with life. In recent years, new venues have sprung up alongside long-standing favorites, creating a melting pot of ideas and experiences. From specialty coffee shops and classic cafés to Georgian bakeries, African restaurants, hybrid food-and-drink spaces, and bars spinning vinyl and cassette tapes, there’s something here for every taste. In Kypseli, you can sip wine from a stemmed glass while enjoying a sandwich, mix Spanish tapas with Cretan meze, indulge in retro almond desserts with real whipped cream, or balance a wrap in one hand and a dry martini in the other.
Williwaw
© Stelios Papardelas
Housed in an old 1960s apartment building with terrazzo floors and high ceilings, Williwaw is the neighborhood’s go-to spot for coffee lovers. They source their beans from Gastronomos Awards winners Kross Coffee Roasters both for their house blend and their four single-origin options. They also occasionally feature coffees from Greek and international roasteries, such as The Barn from Berlin. Directly across the street, Williwaw’s bakery/lab, produces cookies, Basque cheesecakes, tarts and more come. G.P.
69 Kerkyras Tel. (+30) 210.822.0745
Mellem
© Stelios Papardelas
An old corner shop on Fedriadon Street has been transformed into an elegant yet cozy space that has retained much of its original decor. Retro touches, like a deep burgundy ceiling that contrasts with a terrazzo floor, give the venue a warm, inviting atmosphere. Mellem (“in between” in Danish) sits snugly amid Kypseli’s characteristic apartment buildings, offering specialty coffee in the morning and an interesting selection of wines in the afternoon, with a focus on Greek vineyards. Carefully crafted sandwiches, light snacks, and desserts, made with bread sourced from a nearby bakery, round out the menu. M.P.
76 Fedriadon
Tel. (+30) 210.867.7057
Kypseli Municipal Market
© Stelios Papardelas
Kypseli’s Municipal Market is a hub of activity and a meeting point for locals and visitors alike. From open markets and animal-welfare festivals to book presentations, comic bazaars, creative workshops, and music events, there’s always something happening. Regular events include Bostani, a market for fresh and organic products from small producers, as well as workshops for all ages, from embroidery and loom weaving to imaginative creative projects. While you’re there, don’t miss the shops: Hōkō with its crafts, plants, and eco-friendly decor; Finikalala, which features African handmade jewelry and accessories; and, of course, the bookstores. A.S.
42 Fokionos Negri
Caprus
© Aspa Koulyra
By mid-afternoon, Caprus is packed – a testament to its reputation as Kypseli’s go-to neighborhood sandwich spot. Here, sandwiches are an event, often paired with a glass of wine. The menu is built around hearty, flavor-packed creations. The standout is the pastrami sandwich: slow-brined beef brisket roasted to perfection, tucked into soft focaccia with melted Emmental, caramelized onions, fresh spinach, and a sweet-spicy handmade mustard. Greek craft beers and carefully chosen wines complement the sandwiches, making for a relaxed yet unforgettable lunch experience. M.P.
49 Spetson
Tel. (+30) 211.408.9029
Bozas
A neighborhood institution since 1967, Bozas is a pastry shop run by Xenophon Bozas, a confectioner from Constantinople. The shop has a small selection – and that’s always a good sign. In the display, you’ll find delicate wrapped cakes, dipping biscuits, tsourekia, and kourkoubinia. But the crown jewel is the almond cake: golden sponge layers filled with real whipped cream, topped with a maraschino cherry and a generous sprinkle of toasted almonds. It’s nostalgia on a plate. G.P.
Kerkyras & Paxon
Tel. (+30) 210.821.1107
Marili
© Stelios Papardelas
Run by three enterprising young women, Marili brings the flavors of Georgia to Kypseli. Expect khachapuri, the iconic round cheese bread filled with soft, slightly chewy imeruli cheese, alongside khinkali-style dough pouches stuffed with creative fillings: peppery spinach, dill-scented potato, minced meat, mushrooms with coriander, or beans. A must-visit for adventurous food lovers. G.P.
26 Aghias Zonis
Tel. (+30) 211.425.2269
Lalibella
© Alexandros Antoniadis
For decades, Elizabeth and Tzachai Tadesse have been introducing Athenians to the flavors and traditions of Ethiopia at Lalibella. The restaurant is adorned with images of Lalibela’s churches, traditional objects, and mesob, low woven tables where Ethiopians spread injera, the teff-flour flatbread used to scoop up food. For a full experience, try the assortment for two: a platter with bowls of dishes like kik alicha (fava purée with onion, ginger, garlic, and turmeric), lightly spiced lentils, seasoned beef, spicy siga wat, and tibs awaze made with aromatic berbere spice. Eating here is as much about culture as it is about flavor. A.S.
28 Naxou
Tel. (+30) 210.865.2495
¡Topa!
© Stelios Papardelas
¡Topa!
© Stelios Papardelas
On Fokionos Negri, ¡Topa! blends Spanish tapas with Cretan meze in a lively outdoor setting. The menu offers snacks like Gildas – green olives, hot pepper, anchovy, and boquerones skewered together – cured olives, bulbs, and a selection of Greek and Spanish cheeses. Heartier dishes include almond-stuffed dolmadakia, fluffy onion-filled tortilla, mutton meatballs, potatoes with staka, and spicy Basque txistorra. For a special treat, the pluma – a rare shoulder cut of Iberian black pig – is served medium rare with piquillo peppers, perfect for sharing. A.S.
43 Fokionos Negri
Tel. (+30) 210.866.0889
Ypsala
© Aspa Koulyra
Ypsala
© Aspa Koulyra
Opened by three friends – Nikolas Afentoulis, Argyris Ekmetzoglou and Nikos Koukourakis – earlier this year, Ypsala brings quality meze to a bright, airy space away from the narrow lanes of Kypseli. Designed by architect Melisa Nikolaidou, the interior’s yellow and white tones highlight the sunny vibe. The small kitchen focuses on top-quality ingredients, mostly sourced from Crete. Signature dishes include ofti potato with xygalo, Cretan mizithropita, and fried eggs with béchamel made from stakovoutyro, perfect for scooping with bread. Craft beers, bottled tsipouro, wines, and spoon sweets from Gytheio round out the menu. M.P.
1 Ostrovou
Tel. (+30) 210.881.3175
Dylan
© Aspa Koulyra
Nestled among corner shops and pedestrian bustle, Dylan is a small, bright space offering a thoughtful sharing menu of six small dishes plus bread and dessert. Chef Vaggelis Veis reimagines Greek recipes using seasonal ingredients. Highlights include semi-cured leerfish with seafood sauce, pine nuts, and chili, and rooster fricassée with wild greens and grilled zucchini, finished with velvety avgolemono sauce. Each dish complements the next, creating a complete tasting journey. M.P.
38 Aghias Zonis
Tel. (+30) 210.866.8899
Allios
© Angelos Giotopoulos
Allios
© Angelos Giotopoulos
On Kerkyras Street, Allios combines the charm of a traditional Greek kafeneio with a modern, minimalist twist. Beige and brown tones frame a carefully curated menu, where classic dishes are elevated with high-quality ingredients and contemporary flair – a quiet yet stylish refuge from Kypseli’s urban bustle. M.P.
17-19 Kerkyras
Tel. (+30) 695.511.3063
Lisa
© Stelios Papardelas
At Lisa on Fokionos Negri, three domed ovens produce Neapolitan-style pizzas with a delicate, thin, slightly crunchy crust. The menu is small but imaginative, ranging from classic marinara to inventive options like the one with marmite, mozzarella, provolone, garlic and extra virgin olive oil. Spicy lovers can enjoy the Lucifer, topped with Italian nduja, or a pizza topped with tomato sauce, spianata salami, provolone, parmesan, and jalapeños. G.P.
25 Fokionos Negri
Tel. (+30) 693.677.2165
Teleion
© Aggelos Barai
Named after the iconic 1960s Athenian patisserie that once occupied the space, Teleion (Greek for “perfect”) lives up to its name. Step through the elevator-style door into a space that balances style with warmth. The old patisserie refrigerators have been transformed into two elegant wooden bars, inviting you to run your hand across their smooth surfaces while sipping a cocktail. The sound system fills the room with expertly curated music, vintage glassware adds a touch of charm (my Martini arrived in a glass with a stem shaped like an ancient Greek column), and cocktails crafted by Popi Sevastou combine innovation with tradition. The menu features classic favorites alongside four signature drinks designed to be enjoyed without a shaker, letting the music flow uninterrupted. G.P.
40 Ithakis
Godzilla
© Sokratis Baltagiannis
Kypseli’s craft beer scene finds a champion in Godzilla, with ten beers on tap, including offerings from gypsy brewers. Thria, a golden IPA bursting with mango and grapefruit aromas, evolves in the glass, revealing new layers of flavor with every sip. For lighter fare, try Chrysafenia, a refreshing lager ideal for warm days, or Flaros, known for its aromatic, balanced body. Bottled and canned selections complement a menu of flavorful chicken nuggets, available in a variety of styles. M.P.
83 Evelpidon
Tel. (+30) 211.008.3210
Iznogood & Nephew
© Stelios Papardelas
On the pedestrian street of Aghias Zonis, Iznogood & Nephew delights with bright vintage chairs and a 20-square-meter space packed with character. DJ Iznogood and his nephew Nikos create a nostalgic, eclectic vibe with African, European, psychedelic, upbeat, and acoustic jazz sounds, spinning vinyl and cassettes from a mezzanine that resembles a late-’60s/early-’70s hallway, complete with books, records, and memorabilia. Each visit is a sensory experience that pairs drinks with carefully chosen tunes. A.S.
28 Aghias Zonis
Tel. (+30) 211.425.2269
Hotel Eternite:
© Stelios Papardelas
Hotel Eternite
© Stelios Papardelas
Even on weeknights, the corner tables of Hotel Eternite fill quickly. Inside, sofas, a stainless-steel bar, and analog sound set the stage for casual indulgence. The menu features aperitifs, wines, and cocktails alongside small plates such as bruschetta with pastrami and Paros graviera, chicken meatballs with spicy sauce, and a hot dog topped with homemade coleslaw, perfect for pairing with a drink while watching the neighborhood pass by. G.P.
34 Paxon
Tel. (+30) 210.825.5116
Eprepe
© Stelios Papardelas
A neighborhood favorite from the start, Eprepe blends classic cocktails with inventive twists. Nikolas Moschonas (Three Donkeys, Tinos) curates the drinks: a subtly smoky Dry Martini, a Daiquiri incorporating leftover kitchen ingredients (recently rocket, mint, and bergamot), and a zero-waste philosophy reflected in thoughtful glassware, quality ice, and no unnecessary garnishes. The wine list features natural wines from small Greek producers, and beers are supplied by the Noctua microbrewery. Seasonal dishes complement the drinks, making Eprepe a complete sensory experience. M.P.
1 Aghias Zonis
Tel. (+30) 210.864.4910
On the pedestrian street of Komna Traka, near Aghios Georgios Square, four friends transformed a former pastry shop into a welcoming bar, preserving the old sign and the terrazzo floor that give the space its character. What really sets Komna Traka apart is the care and attention given to guests, ensuring everyone can relax and enjoy themselves. Y2K music fills the air, creating a laid-back atmosphere, while the drinks are clean, straightforward, and perfectly crafted. The cocktail menu includes classics like Negroni, Dry Martini, Margarita, Paloma, and Gin & Tonic, each expertly made. Food at Komna Traka is just as thoughtful: from a tuna melt sandwich to hearty pintxos, and even a souvlaki wrap with kontosouvli, yogurt sauce, and tomatoes – comfort food with a touch of sophistication.
Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.
2 Komna TraKa
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