A Weekend Getaway to Kalavryta and Mount Helmos
Whether by foot, car, or the...
Melissourgi is cradled by a lush fir forest, but you’ll also come across wild cherry trees, hazelnuts, and majestic oaks.
© Dimitris Tosidis
Nestled in the shadow of the towering Tzoumerka peaks, the village of Melissourgi is right at the end of the road. Beyond it lie steep slopes, dramatic ravines, and rugged mountaintops, with only the distant villages of Syrrako and Kalarrytes, perched like eagles’ nests on the hillsides, hinting at human presence. Here, where the road ends, tranquility begins. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect, as visitors are few and far between – mostly nature enthusiasts and weekend explorers from Ioannina.
Firs embrace the Melissourgoi mountain refuge, just above the village.
© Dimitris Tosidis
Melissourgi is cradled by a lush fir forest, but you’ll also come across wild cherry trees, hazelnuts, and majestic oaks. The village is surrounded by bubbling springs and crystal-clear streams, which fill the air with the sound of running water. The most stunning sight is the Kefalovryso Waterfalls, which never dry up and are one of Greece’s largest – its streams slice through the towering cliffs like nature’s own artist.
Sokratis and Aspasia, two of the approximately 200 residents of the village.
© Dimitris Tosidis
If the weather is still good, a trip to the Kryoneri Waterfall can also be accompanied by a refreshing dip in its waters.
© Dimitris Tosidis
The 40-minute hike to Kefalovryso from the Melissourgi Mountain Refuge is a feast for the senses, as the trail takes you through dense forest before revealing the thunderous waterfall in the distance. The Kryoneri Waterfalls, located on the opposite side of the hamlet, await the more adventurous. The round-trip hike to Kryoneri will take about 2 to 2½ hours, providing ample time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. With views like these, it’s no wonder the Tzoumerka Mountains are often called the “Alps of Greece.” Whether you’re in the village or out in the wilderness, you’re surrounded by fir-covered peaks and dense forests.
Detail from the Church of Aghios Nikolaos.
© Dimitris Tosidis
Murals inside the Church of Aghios Nikolaos, within the settlement.
© Dimitris Tosidis
The deep connection to nature, the sense of isolation, and the absolute stillness late at night or early in the morning, when the cafés and tavernas are either closed or yet to open, make staying in Melissourgi an experience unlike any other. Don’t miss the chance to hike up to the mountain refuge above the village, where you’ll be treated to sweeping views of the towering peaks. It’s especially magical at sunset when the mountains glow crimson in the fading light – a scene straight out of a painting.
Melissourgoi is 431 km from Athens (about a 5-hour drive) and 324 km from Thessaloniki (about a 4-hour drive).
Where to stay
Hotel Koferita (Tel. (+30) 26590.639.09) boasts stunning views of the mountain slopes and chic, modern rooms. For a more rustic experience, the Agathi guesthouse (Tel. (+30) 26590.612.00) sits in the heart of a fir forest, offering cozy rooms and a hearty breakfast. Meanwhile, Orizontes Tzoumerkon (Tel. (+30) 26590.610.02), located on the road between Pramanta and Melissourgi, offers rooms with panoramic views, a restaurant, and a luxurious spa to unwind after a day of exploring.
Where to eat
In the upper square of the village, Kambos (Tel. (+30) 697.041.3616) serves up mouthwatering traditional dishes such as tender, slow-cooked veal in tomato sauce and the local specialty, tsoumpleki (baked meatballs with caramelized onions), as well as spit-roasted meat and succulent cuts grilled over charcoal. In the village’s lower square, under the shade of a centuries-old plane tree, Papas Taverna (Tel. (+30) 26590.611.14) serves tempting homemade pies, delicious galotyri (a tangy, creamy cheese), and meats cooked to order. And if you’re up for a meal with a view, both the Melissourgi and Pramanta mountain refuges offer hearty home-cooked dishes daily.
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