Athens’ Koupas Mansion Shines Again
The renovation of Ernst Ziller’s richly…
© Dimitris Vlaikos
One of Athens’ oldest cafes, Mournia, is set to close after more than a century in the capital’s Exarchia neighborhood, ending a long history as a meeting place for residents, artists, politicians and passersby. The cafe, at the corner of Harilaou Trikoupi and Kallidromiou streets, faced closure last summer after its building owner sought to change the use of the premises. A public campaign backed by the Athens Food Service Professionals Association and local residents called on the Culture Ministry to designate it a modern cultural heritage monument, protecting its continued use as a cafe.
A petition and public protests prompted the owner to withdraw the initial decision, raising hopes the venue would remain open. But those hopes were short-lived. In a Facebook post Sunday, Mournia announced its imminent closure, sharing a photograph of workers removing its iconic sculpture of Icarus, which had adorned the cafe for years. “The taking down. For all the times you held us and we held you. In an embrace,” read the caption.
Christos Vanas, who has run the cafe since 1982, told the press that the lease had not been renewed. The contract expired in March, and Vanas and his staff are now being forced to leave following a court-ordered eviction. Founded in 1915, Mournia has long been a fixture of Exarchia’s social life, welcoming people from different backgrounds. Its tables have hosted pensioners, young people, families, artists, politicians and poets. The cafe was especially lively on Saturdays, when the nearby Kallidromiou street market drew vendors, shoppers and regulars. Conversations over coffee often continued over tsipouro and meze, covering everything from politics to neighborhood life.
For many, Mournia was more than a cafe – it was a place to meet friends, exchange advice and mark the passage of generations. Its closure is another sign of the pressures reshaping Athens’ historic center. The cafe will hold a farewell gathering Saturday (31/10) after 6 pm, inviting patrons to share memories and celebrate its history.
The renovation of Ernst Ziller’s richly…