1. “Mavrodafni” and history lessons at Achaia Clauss winery

“It takes time,” Periklis Baltas, manager of Achaia Clauss tells us once we’re finally finished with our marathon tour of the wine-making estate. He’s right. This place is a destination in and of itself. The country’s first organized winery was founded by the Bavarian Gustav Clauss, who came to Greece in the middle of the 19th century as a representative of a German company importing raisins from the country.

“He was mostly interested in dessert wines and cognac, so naturally, the first wine he produced here was a sweet one.” That was a Mavrodafni, the sweet red wine Patras is famous for. Achaia Clauss produces several other PDO (protected designation of origin) wines, such as the Moschato of Patras, and the Melissea Moschato. The latter is sweetened using an “age-old method of sun-ripening the grapes,” Baltas tells us.

Baltas can talk for hours about the character of the wines produced here, but what makes his stories fascinating are the connections he draws between the operation of the winery and the social and political situation of the time.

In the beginning, Clauss worked together with Germans, Greeks, and Maltese, meaning that “Within the estate, three separate religious communities coexisted peacefully: protestants, orthodox and catholic christians.” However, Baltas says, following his death in 1908 and the subsequent outbreak of WWI, the German community was expelled from Greece, and the winery passed to the hands of the Greek state as war reparations (!). It was later taken over by the family of the currant merchant, Vlasis Antonopoulos.

2. The Archaeological Museum of the Future

As far as its archaeological museum goes, Patras’ gamble paid off. And this because the building that replaced the old archaeological museum in 2009, feels truly ‘modern’, with that term extending beyond just the newness of the facility. The flexible building (created by architects Bobotis + Bobotis) consists of asymmetric structures, a dome covered in titanium and an artificial lake (which, it must be said, is not always full) that is a reference to Patras’ perennial close relationship with water – i.e. the sea.

The permanent exhibition is displayed in three halls that explore different themes: “necropolis,” “private life,” and “public life”. We were especially impressed by a Mycenaean ceramic urn decorated with fish and octopi, a skull still adorned by a flower-decorated wreath, the amazing mosaic floors, and, of course, the Roman-era statue of Athena; a replica of the famous ivory and gold statue that was once housed in the Parthenon which was discovered in pieces at two different spots in 1896 and 1911.

3. The Castle with a View

In the foothills of the Panahaikos mountain range, built on the ruins of an ancient city, you will find the Castle of Patras. The castle bears the scars and marks left by the important historical events that befell the city.

It was besieged by Slavs and Saracens, and captured by the Byzantine emperor Constantine Paleologos. The Ottomans used it as a command center. It was damaged during the Orlov revolt, and rocked by a strong earthquake in the 19th century.

Aside from its historical interest, a walk up to the castle is worth the effort just to see the view of Patras from above. Some tiled roofs, marking the neoclassical houses, are scattered among the many blocks of apartment buildings below.

4. Loukoumia and Tentura Liqueur at the Hahali Bros.

Barrels of sherry brandy, shelves packed with bottles, an old mock-up for an advert touting the offerings of the Hahali Bros., boxes of tentura-flavored loukoumia and bottles of orange liqueur stacked on top of each other like Legos.

The shop of the Kastro distillery (which was founded by Georgios Hahalis in Chios in the 19th century, and transferred to Patras by Panagiotis Hahalis in 1939 where it thrived) is a haven for lovers of aromatic alcoholic drinks (flavored with ginger, thyme, mint, and even grapefruit), and especially for those who like Patras’ traditional liqueur Tentura, (which is even used to flavor pastilles). Or shop here just for the atmosphere with the retro design of the products presented in a stylish, tasteful setting.

5. Building Bridges over Sunday brunch at Gefyres

“The contractors, the carpenters, the electricians, architect Tatiana Dimou, artist Kleomenis Kostopoulos, the members of SOPSY (Patra’s Association for Mental Health)…So many people helped create this place from nothing,” Lambros Arapakos, a social worker with SOPSY, says about “Gefyres” (Bridges).

Gefyres, on Patreos street is a special place with deep red walls and a beautiful garden staffed by individuals who have suffered from mental health issues. The cafe frequently hosts cultural events (from book readings to movie nights and live music), and is famous for its Sunday brunch (serving croque monsieurs, croque madames, marbled cakes, and crepes).

But people also come here for the warm hospitality shown by the people who work here. One of the latter is Mina, who we met, a professional who loves what she does. “It is a social job; I get to interact with people and serve them with hospitality and a smile. And you get the same energy right back.” Drop by for a coffee!