From Crete to Serres, on the islands and on the mainland, Greeks and visitors alike enjoy this fluffy, delicious treat brought to these shores from Asia Minor. Wherever you find local producers turning out filo dough, as they do in Rethymno or Iraklio on Crete, or in Ioannina or Thessaloniki (the latter considers bougatsa its own local product), you’ll hear them boast about being the only ones who’ve remained true to the authentic recipe.

Bougatsa is not a pie. Nor is it a dessert, as it may sometimes be described, due to problems in translation. What’s more, if it’s not made with airy, flaky filo pastry, then it shouldn’t be called a bougatsa. 

The filo dough used to make bougatsa is not rolled out with a rolling pin; instead, bougatsa makers, true craftspeople, stretch and pull the dough by hand, laying it out on a large work surface. They then open it up like a sheet, spreading it so thin that it becomes almost transparent, as if woven by a spider. They then begin folding it over and over, adding plenty of melted butter as they do so. They also choose the filling. Classic savory fillings include ground meat or herbs and cheese, or just cheese, while the most common sweet filling is a smooth semolina cream. The folding of the dough, combined with plenty of butter, creates parallel layers so the treat is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Below is a very easy version, a variation on the classic recipe, using ready-made thick sfoliata filo sheets because making suitable filo dough from scratch at home is extremely hard. If you want the best possible results, buy the best ingredients: fresh milk from a small farm, ideally organic; eggs from free-range or pasture-fed hens; and fresh cow or sheep butter for a stronger aroma.

Bougatsa is a perfect breakfast or afternoon snack, and will go wonderfully with your tea or coffee.

Helpful tips

Don’t forget to cut the bougatsa before baking, as it’s challenging to cut afterwards!

Be careful; if you try to unfold the filo while it’s still frozen, it may break.

If the cream becomes too thick, add a little milk and stir until it thins down again.

An easy way to place the second filo sheet on top is to leave the plastic backing in place as you put the sheet dough-side down on the cream. Smooth it out and then slowly remove the backing, gently pulling it off. 

This article was previously published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.