Ekeimeros – Braises from the fireplace 

One of the coziest restaurants you could hope to find, this gem is nestled in a meadow all by itself, far from civilization. A traditional wooden house stands alone, already promising with the inviting scent of wood smoke rising from its chimney. The wood-paneled dining room, with polished rafters high above, is filled with flowers and fruit and vegetables and everything beautiful. 

Hopefully you’ve arrived quite hungry. Nestled in the fireplace, covered cast-iron pots have been slowly simmering for hours – since the previous night, in fact. One holds wild boar, another beef cheeks, a third goat in tomatoes and wine to serve with hand–rolled pasta. There are more. Also, there’s sarmadakia – stuffed cabbage rolls, Pontian-style. This is true family cooking at its finest, with the talented yet humble Pelagia Margariti at the helm of the kitchen. Of Asia Minor heritage, she brings a rich legacy of flavors to the table. Her husband, Pelagia Margariti, is in charge of the grill, bringing his own Pontian roots into play. The recipes are handed down through their families, and those cast iron casseroles are his mother’s. Their children – Maria (a professionally trained chef), Kyriakos, Vagia, and Stavros – are all involved, guaranteeing an especially warm and personal experience.

Vergiotiko – Local beef in Little Jerusalem

Veria is usually synonymous with peaches. The drive to Veria from Thessaloniki in springtime is a riot of blossoms. It’s also known for revani, a syrupy semolina cake. But Veria should also be known for beef; much of Greece’s excellent beef is raised in the region. Some of it was raised by the family of Nikos Malliaras; the chef and host at Vergiotiko knows quality beef.

There’s a variety of mainly Greek-raised beef here – Greek angus, Greek blonde, and Greek-raised imported breeds. The chef has a close relationship with the suppliers and stocks the choicest cuts, which are then aged on site. Those who like top-quality grilled meats, prepared with skill, will be happy – these are extremely flavorful meats. They also have some wonderfully aromatic slow-cooked dishes, like beef cheeks or osso buco with trahana. The elegant but primal dining room suits the menu perfectly; the charming restaurant is in a cave.

Veria’s 48 Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches have earned it the name “Little Jerusalem” – this was an important spiritual center from the 11th–14th centuries. The city’s Christian heritage is much older – St Paul preached here in the first century BCE – and a visit to the excellent Byzantine Museum rounds out the theme. Before leaving town, enjoy a coffee and a sweet slice of revani on the promenade overlooking the fertile plains. 

Marigoula (Oenomageirio Marigoula) – High-style gastronomy with traditional tastes 

This wine–forward restaurant (an oenomageigio – “oeno” as in “oenophile” – is a place where they cook food to accompany wine) beautifully blends tradition and inventive contemporary cuisine.

Chef and owner Sophoklis Iatzoglou grew up in his father’s very popular patisserie/cafe. Patrons there eventually started asking for home-style dishes from his mother, Kyria Marigoula. Iatzoglou learned at her side and took over in the ‘90s, making food that is rooted in respect for traditional Greek tastes and excellent local ingredients. Along the way, his travels inspired him to experiment, incorporating elements that reflect an international sensibility, while staying true to Greek tastes and ingredients. The platings are elegant, contemporary, never overdone. There are seasonal dishes of the day, based on artisanal products such as the heritage Greek breed ancient black pig, plus some favorite standards. Half portions are available, encouraging diners to explore a wide variety of dishes. The dishes are fantastic, the lighting lovely, the wine list really nice, and the antique-filled setting feels like an old “kafeneio.” Despite the restaurant’s accolades, Iatzoglou remains humble, ensuring that guests are treated to exceptional quality and a genuinely welcoming experience.

Marigoula is an hour from Thessaloniki. Ktima Gerovassiliou – with the excellent Gerovassiliou Wine Museum – makes an excellent stop on the way. Make sure to take in the superb sculpture collection, featuring many pieces by notable Greek artists set among the vines. Also en route is the archaeological site of Ancient Olynthos, about 25 minutes from the restaurant. For something even older, visit the recently reopened Petralona Cave, a geological marvel and site of Paleolithic-era discoveries. It’s roughly midway between Ktima Gerovassiliou and Marigoula.

Fanós Mezedopoleio – Home cooking, Asia Minor-style

There are two villages called Fanós in northern Greece. The one that comes up on Google is the small, remote one in the Florina region. The Fanós that we’re referring to though is even smaller and more remote – just a ten-minute drive from the border crossing for North Macedonia, or about 2 km as the crow flies. A very narrow road, often practically deserted after Axioupoli, ascends through a landscape of rolling hills leading to this pocket-sized village, where the cozy restaurant is easy to spot. A somba (a traditional cast-iron wood-burning stove) warms the stylish space, which balances rustic charm with just the right amount of fancy – old wooden tables, heirloom embroidered tablecloths, vintage photographs and prints on the walls, and nice stemware. 

The sisters Yiota and Eftichia Papadopoulou run both Fanós mezedopoleia – this one in their village and the better-known branch in Thessaloniki. Though the Thessaloniki location – run byEftichia – gets more attention, it’s well worth the drive to their village for a taste of food that’s deeply rooted in tradition. Here, “back-to-the-roots” dishes are prepared with grace and refinement. The culinary heritage of Asia Minor shines in dishes like tou giaourtlou, kebab in zesty tomato sauce and yogurt; gözleme, a delicate savoury pie; and hünkar beğendi, tender stewed beef served over smoky eggplant puree with a rich béchamel sauce, one of the cuisine’s signature dishes. The food reflects the flavors of Politiki Kouzina (the cuisine of Constantinople), the dishes of Smyrne, and other recipes that the families of Fanos, including the sisters’ own, brought with them from Asia Minor. While Yiota humbly credits her sister Eftichia, named after their grandmother and the family’s culinary inspiration, as the true chef of the family, it’s hard to imagine a better plate of hünkar beğendi than the one Yiota serves.

Fanós is just over an hour’s drive north of Thessaloniki. While in the area, don’t miss the Skra Waterfalls, about 15 km west of the village – take a scenic walk along the wooded path by the lake before enjoying lunch. Goumenissa, a charming wine town, makes an excellent detour on the way there or back, adding half an hour to the drive. There’s a fine plateia where you can enjoy a coffee beside the fountain, and there are also several wineries around Goumenissa to visit. Be sure to check opening hours or, better still, call in advance to arrange a tour and tasting. The local red grape, Negoska, is nearly unique to the area.