At Hydyli café-bar, the unmistakable synth melody of “Enola Gay” spills from the speakers as Mrs. Spyridoula fries the meatballs I’ll soon take with me to the beach. While I wait, I glance at Elli, deeply absorbed in Isabel Allende’s latest novel. It’s her 25th summer in Samos, and even now, she finds it hard to explain what keeps bringing her back. When she first set foot on the island, she says, she felt it was her place. Now, retired, she enjoys the simplicity and tranquility of Heraion. Elli is from the Netherlands, like most of the regulars at this small seaside café near the chapel of Aghios Petros and Pavlos. Around her, fellow Dutch, Germans, and Austrians lounge under tamarisk trees, reading quietly with the mountains of Turkey rising in the background.

The calm of the scene is broken only by Mario’s voice, who has just arrived from Milan with his wife, greeting the swimmers with enthusiasm. The couple has been spending their summers in Heraion for fifteen years, and they seem to know everyone. “Here, people aren’t snobbish,” Mario tells me. “It’s easy to meet people.” And he’s right. By the time my meatballs are ready, I’ve already struck up a conversation with Mr. Miltos, a local fisherman proudly showing me on his phone the tuna he caught that morning, and Mr. Nikos, who treats us to figs while reminiscing about the island’s heyday in the 1980s.

The 1980s have clearly left their mark on the island’s aesthetics and culture. Summers in Samos still preserve something of the simplicity and carefree spirit of the holidays we nostalgically long for. Despite being one of the first northern Aegean islands to develop tourism, Samos has resisted the tide of overdevelopment. Historical landmarks, small-scale accommodations, and a steady stream of loyal Northern European visitors are spread across the island, keeping things low-key, even at the height of August.

Here, you can still book a room last-minute by asking around the village square. You can still find space for your towel under the tamarisk trees. Even on August 15th, you can land a free sunbed, no reservation required. You can read undisturbed on the beach until the sun slips into the sea. If your ideal vacation involves fishing, reading, staying still, and savoring peace and quiet, Samos, with its pine-blanketed hills and gentle beaches, delivers.

From Heraion to Aghios Konstantinos

Heraion, once a humble fishing village, began attracting visitors in the 1980s thanks to the nearby Temple of Hera. Today, it retains its laid-back charm, with plenty of places to eat and unwind. Next to the Idili café-bar (Tel. (+30) 22730.953.12), fishermen unload their daily catch, which you will find served at restaurants like Nero & Alati (Tel. (+30) 693.632.7752) and Akrogiali (Tel. (+30) 22730.953.61). For more budget-friendly options, wander a street back from the waterfront, where among other things you’ll find excellent pizza at Karavopetra (Tel. (+30) 22730.953.83).

On the island’s eastern side, Kerveli Beach offers crystalline turquoise waters framed by pines and olives that stretch down to the sea. Beneath the tamarisks, cicadas provide the only soundtrack. When hunger strikes, head a few steps inland to Haravgi Tavern (Tel. (+30) 22730.807.57) for classic Greek meze right on the water, or try something lighter on the poufs and sun loungers next door, all part of the same relaxed spot.

Further north, Avlakia sits quietly between the busier beaches of Tsabou and Tsamadou. With its white-pebble shoreline and forested mountain backdrop, it’s ideal for snorkeling, fishing, or reading in a hammock. Stop at the Avlakia Hotel café (Tel. (+30) 22730.942.30) in front of the little chapel of Saint Nicholas, or sample gourmet seafood just a few steps away at Asimopetra (Tel. (+30) 698.236.8683). 

Last but not least, in the picturesque lower settlement of Aghios Konstantinos, beneath the mountain village of Vourliotes, you’ll find stone-built houses, harbor views, and no traditional village square – an exception on this island. Linger at Aiolos (Tel. (+30) 698.070.3834) for elevated cuisine by the water, or sip coffee at Balkoni (Tel. (+30) 22730.948.59), where the wild beauty of northern Samos unfolds in golden light at sunset.