The business of reviving the Thessaloniki food scene is being carried out mainly among friends. Τalented young people with culinary know-how, a shared enthusiasm and fresh ideas gleaned from travel pin-pointed what was missing from the restaurant map and brought a breath of fresh air to a city that loves its food.

Our story begins in the Ladadika District in 2012, with the opening of Sebriko. Today, under new ownership, the restaurant still showcases Greek products, putting the emphasis on meze, among which the spicy soutzouk sausage and the fava split-pea paste are favorites. Its signature dish is the rib-eye, usually done medium-well, while other good selections include the chicken with eggplant puree, an alternative version of the Anatolian hunkiar beyendi (usually prepared with veal).

Extravaganza, the creation of three friends who met while doing their military service, has been in operation for three years now, in an arcade near the Roman Agora. The owners took over an abandoned space, introduced a simple yet stylish decorative theme and opened a bar-restaurant where they create new recipes, such as the burger made with beef kavourma (slow-roasted meat) that they prepare themselves. You should also try the graviera goat cheese in an almond crust, served with chili marmalade. The wine list is small, but reasonably priced and of good quality.

Igglis in Kastra, with a history dating back almost 100 years, has been an instrumental force on the Thessaloniki food scene for decades and, as such,w does not belong to the new generation of restaurants. However, the current owners have endowed the menu with a wonderful mix of retro and “right now,” marrying traditional Greek techniques (such as cooking stews in clay pots) to the food spirit of the East, using old recipes and ingredients that have fallen out of fashion but infusing all their dishes with inspiration and freshness. If the weather is fine, look for a table under the vine-covered pergola outside.

Over the years, Folia (now known as Nea Folia, or “New Nest”), has evolved from a kafeneio/cheap wine boozery into a real gem. The food is rich northern Greek fare with exciting touches, like the mustard leaves, anise and ginger that go into the classic lemon pork, or the tarragon and raspberry vinegar in the rabbit stew. Try the beef sausage stew with leeks, celeriac and dried fruits, and d0n’t miss some of the amazing cheeses from other parts of Greece – the melicholoro and kaskavali from Lesvos, the xinotyri from Ios or the fennel-scented cheese from Andros. Dessert is on the house.

Talented young people with culinary know-how, a shared enthusiasm and fresh ideas pinpointed what was missing and brought a breath of fresh air to a city that loves its food.