We’ve been battling with a crab for around half an hour. Our adversary is a challenging one. The grilled crab, served with a delicious lemon and olive oil dressing, has deservedly won our complete attention.

We visited on a Sunday afternoon and in a humble, homely taverna in Nikaia, the dim flame from a solitary oil lamp flickered on a table, while a bougainvillea near the taverna’s entrance gave a dazzling color to the street as we gazed from the inside out.

The kitchen was going all guns blazing. Every table was enjoying the house specialty, the crab, from which the taverna gets its name (ta kavourakia is Greek for “little crabs” and also the title of a popular folk song). Fried fish also feature high on the list of things to try here. The crunchy mullet, smelt and fresh European hake which we ordered were all cooked to perfection.

The marinated anchovies were very good, with the correct balance of sharpness and garlic, as were the large grilled prawns served with lemon sauce. All of this was accompanied with a large salad of fresh vegetables and boiled greens, and, of course, glasses of ouzo for a perfect Sunday meal.

Ta Kavourakia is a traditional establishment with a different style. For example, there is no menu and the bread doesn’t come in a basket, but wrapped in a paper napkin. Whatever they serve is of good quality and well executed. A homely, humble place to eat, where on a sun-drenched afternoon you should request one of the tables outside to enjoy the view.