15 stops in Salamina

1. The fish market

Its façade is painted in shades of white and blue, and the lettering on the sign above the entrance has an art deco vibe. The main fish market of Salamina Town is, in short, quaint and inviting, a great place for a quick look around or for getting fresh fish at good prices. You’ll find cod, blue whiting, blotched picarel, cuttlefish, flying squid, octopus and other species from the waters around nearby Saronic islands, such as Aegina, Poros and Hydra.

3. Horseback riding through the pines

The Salamina Riding Club, located in the middle of a large pine forest, offers a range of activities. This is a great place to spend the day as a family, taking riding and jumping classes. The club, which was founded in 2010, has both horses and ponies available. If you don’t feel like saddling up, the club has a café where you can enjoy a fresh fruit juice, a chocolate drink, or a glass of tsipouro or mastic liqueur while enjoying a view that stretches all the way to Agistri and Aegina. 

4. Diving for everyone

The Salamina Diving Center is open all year round, and while it maintains an office in the island’s main town, in the summer its base of operations is at the Aias Beach Club in Maroudi. It offers snorkeling (from ages 8 and up); the Discover program (ages 10+) for novices, with dives at two meters; three-day courses (free diving or scuba); boat excursions for certified divers; and diving classes for people with mobility or vision problems, or for those with Down’s Syndrome. All of the instructors are lovely people who will make you feel safe and comfortable.

5. Stock up

There’s a store in the main town called Evexia (meaning “wellness” in Greek), which sells organic products and traditional goods from Greece and other parts of the world. Thyme from Volos, mountain tea from Mount Olympus, honey from Argos and sugar-free bread snacks are just some of the items you’ll find, so stop by and pick up a selection of goodies for your cupboard back home or a picnic here. And if you want fresh and fruit and vegetables as well, visit one of the island’s farmers’ markets. We happened to stumble onto the one held at Aiantos, where we picked up pears from Volos, sour apples from Zagora, and oranges and mandarins from Laconia. There were some local products, but not many; Salamina is rocky country which, a market seller informed us, produces mainly “cabbages, parsley, dill and onions.”

6. Snacking on platetsi and kougoulouari

At the Begnis bakery and sweet shop in Salamina Town, you’ll find halva, glazed donuts, crostini, Hydra-style sweet almond pastries and, of course, two classic local savory treats known as platetsi (bread made with olive oil and sometimes feta cheese) and kougoulouari (zucchini pie with raisins). For a quick snack or breakfast, you can also choose from savory pies stuffed with feta or kaseri cheese, with ham and cheese, or with spinach.

7. Seafood by the seaside

Salamina is all about fish and ouzo by the sea. One of the best, if not the best, fish tavernas on the island is Kakias, renowned for its octopus, calamari, cuttlefish, prawns and langoustine. It serves a good selection of tsipouro (from Macedonia, Viotia, Kalamata, Tyrnavo, Volos, Kavala and Drama), as well as several brands of ouzo. Sunday lunch is its busiest time, so reservations are recommended. Another place that serves good food – and welcomes you with a bowl of kakavia fish stew – is the meze taverna Paralia. Both are in Salamina Town.

8. More than 2,500 years of history

The old elementary school that’s now home to the island’s Archaeological Museum is one of the loveliest buildings on Salamina. Exhibits here present the history of the island (which in ancient times was named Salamis after the daughter of the god Asopus but also been known as known as Pitiousa, Skira and Kychreia), including its colonization by Aegina in prehistoric times. There are also displays on the stratagems of lawmaker Solon, who helped the Athenians take possession of the island after it had fallen to Megara and, of course, material concerning the famed naval battle. Among the other archaeological finds from different periods is a section of a vase engraved with the name of Euripides, found in the cave in Peristeria. 

10. A pair of cafés

On the main town’s beach, just off the busiest part of the stretch of coast here, Puzzles and Belair Lines are two cafés that are open all day. They’re both good spots to enjoy a beverage outdoors while staring out over the sea on a warm day.

11. And a pair of bars

For a night out, check out either Rouky or Sparrow. The former organizes premium whiskey tastings and is known for hosting an autumn dance festival featuring various rock n’ roll and swing bands. Sparrow also has a good selection of whiskies, as well as good cocktails like the Spicy Margarita and the Pink Colada, while the music is jazz, funk and soul.

13. Naval history and traditional dress

Apart from its archaeological museum, Salamina also has two more noteworthy museums, one dedicated to its naval history and one to its folk customs, both located in the town hall of Salamina Town. The Museum of Folk Art showcases the island’s sartorial traditions with displays of period costumes like that of the charcoal seller with the black felt cap or the traditional wedding gown with brightly colored detailing, gold stripes and chiffon. The Maritime Museum has displays of maps and navigational instruments, among other items.

15. Summer screenings

Our last item of interest on Salamina is an experience reserved for the summer, the open-air Cine Selini movie theater in Selinia. Last year’s program included a mixed bag of blockbusters and arthouse fare, including “Adults in the Room,” “Joker,” “Rambo: Last Blood,” “Downtown Abbey” and “Midsommer.” Athens movie guides list this movie theater among those in Piraeus, probably because they know that even if you’re not staying on the island, you can still head over for your movie night by taking the ferry from the Piraeus suburb of Perama.