#1 Domna

Ascending Aghiou Dimitriou Street towards Ano Poli, just past the Byzantine walls, you’ll find a modest structure with a small, faded sign that reads Domna. This is the place. It’s open on Friday, Saturday and Tuesdays only, and even then only with a reservation. Domna was founded in 1943, during the German occupation, by Takis (Panagiotis) Nikolaidis, a refugee from Eastern Thrace, who first named it Remataki (“Little Stream”), after the brook that once flowed behind the house. When his wife Domna died in 1952, he renamed the taverna in her memory. In the 1960s, it evolved from a grocery-taverna into a koutouki: a tiny, warm room filled with laughter, stories and the sound of rebetika from the jukebox. Takis’ easy manner and fair prices made the place a popular spot for locals, students and, later, artists, professors and journalists, the city’s cultural crowd, who turned it into a Thessaloniki institution.

During the junta, Domna became a discreet hub of resistance. Patrons sang Mikis Theodorakis songs, shared news and sometimes faced police raids. But the taverna always reopened, each time even more respected. When Takis retired in 1992, he briefly closed the doors, only to reopen by popular demand once a week, until his death in 2010. His sons Christos and Kostis have since kept the spirit intact. You’ll find the same tables, the same warmth and the same menu because, at Domna, when you try to order, the waiter still smiles and says, “Order whatever you like, we’ll bring you whatever we want.”

#2 Doxa

At the corner of Kassandrou and Olympiados streets, just up the road from the Turkish Consulate and the house in which Kemal Atatürk is said to have been born, stands Doxa. Its plain exterior may not live up to its name (The word “Doxa” means “Glory” in Greek, although in fact the koutouki is named in honor of the football team Doxa Dramas), but its history and spirit certainly do. Founded in 1968 by the Papadopoulos family, refugees from Samsun in Pontus who later settled in Drama, it remains a warm, unpretentious meeting place where simplicity and good food prevail. Since 2002, third-generation owner Tasos and his gracious wife have carried on the family tradition, keeping prices fair and the atmosphere, which is welcoming to students and locals alike, unchanged.

#3 Pire kai Vradiazei

On the eastern side of Thessaloniki near Ippokrateio Hospital, Pire kai Vradiazei (“It’s Getting Late”) reminds you that, when night falls, it’s time to come in for the evening. Run since 1999 by the Nousigas and Hatzileonidas families, it continues the work begun by Kostas Papadopoulos and his son Nikos. This koutouki is home to the century-old tradition of the “Lechrites,” a merry brotherhood of  Thessalonians who hold boisterous celebrations during the Carnival season. Their gatherings, once strictly men-only, have become a popular local ritual for all. Each year, the Lechrites return here to toast their history and keep the fun alive. If you want expertly grilled soutzoukakia (oblong meatballs) and live music, book a table here. It’s the dish that everyone orders, even the musicians.

#4 Ta Bakaliarakia tou Aristou

In Thessaloniki’s historic Ladadika district, where Katouni Street meets Nikis Avenue near the old port, lies a century-old culinary gem: Ta Bakaliarakia tou Aristou (“Aristos’ Little Cods”). Founded in 1910 by Kostas Ignatiadis and later run by his son Aristos, who gave his name to the place, it became legendary for its perfectly fried cod. Since 1987, the Kerranidis family has been the keeper of the recipe, unchanged through three generations. The cod still comes from Norway, the batter is made with care, and the fish is always served on greaseproof paper – never plates – with garlic dip, potato rounds and a spicy grilled pepper. It’s simple, it’s timeless, and it’s authentic.

#5 Nea Folia

Founded in 1967, and run since 2010 by Dimitris Vardalidis and chef Giorgos Chlouzas, Nea Folia serves Greek cuisine with a creative touch. Once famed for the retsina barrels that held its own homemade wine, it has kept the same warm, cultured spirit that made it the haunt of students and intellectuals during the junta years.

#6 Stasi

On historic Kallithea Square in Ano Poli, Stasi (“Stop”) has been operating since 2016 at the spot where a city bus stop once stood. A cooperative owned by eight former hospitality workers, it’s run according to principles of equality and shared responsibility and serves students, locals and, every Good Friday, the faithful returning from the nearby Church of Aghios Nikolaos Orfanos.

#7 Tsinari

At a crossroads in Ano Poli, beneath a plane tree for which it is named (“tsinari” means “plane tree” in Turkish), this legendary eatery has been in operation since the 1880s. Once a small café, it grew into one of Thessaloniki’s best-loved tavernas. Still run by the Papadopoulos family, it has preserved its Ottoman-era charm and a menu rich in Anatolian flavors.

#8 Kronos

Beneath a row of plane trees in the leafy Depo district stands Kronos, a classic Thessaloniki taverna founded in 1961 by Christos Christodoulou. It took its name from the nearby cinema Kronos, becoming “the taverna next to Kronos,” a name that stuck for good. Since the late 1980s, Christos’ son Socrates has been in charge, raising standards while keeping the same warm atmosphere. The retsina is now sourced from Karystos, the food is all homemade, with the soutzoukakia as a highlight, and the walls are lined with vintage collectibles that tell their own story. It’s a true neighborhood institution that still honors its founder.

#9 Ta Panta Rei

Heraclitus said, “Everything flows,” which is this spot’s name, too, although owner and cook Angeliki Christodoulou insists the only thing flowing in her kitchen is a steady rise in quality. Serving hearty Greek home cooking with a focus on slow-cooked dishes, she adds live music on winter Saturdays, and plenty of warmth year-round.

#10 Akratos Oinos

In Thessaloniki’s Ladadika district, Akratos Oinos is notable for its extensive wine list and elegant Greek-Mediterranean flavors. Here, chef Akis reimagines family recipes and childhood flavors in a refined yet welcoming setting.

#11 Dia Tauta

Giving the traditional koutouki spirit a modern twist, Dia Tauta offers live music, an extensive menu and a lively, youthful crowd. It keeps the customary conviviality of such spots alive, but injects a livelier rhythm.

#12 Favela SKG

Seven neighboring bars joined forces in 2021 to create Favela SKG, a colorful, Brazilian-style corner of Thessaloniki. With cocktails, Latin bites and vibrant music, it’s an imaginative reinvention of the koutouki spirit, redefined for the night.

#13 Aspro Dendro

In the Bit Bazaar area, Aspro Dendro (“White Tree”) combines the dining and theater experience under one roof. Founded in 2020 by chef-actor Antonis Fotiadis, it features a front restaurant and a small stage behind the kitchen for performances and acting classes. Calm, creative and truly unique, this is a place to eat, dream and enjoy.