The Meidias Hydria

As the dust settles following the recent diplomatic spat between Greece and the UK over the fate of the Parthenon Sculptures, the Acropolis Museum in Athens has launched a brand-new exhibition that features a renowned ancient Greek water jug (hydria) from 420 BC, on loan from the British Museum.

Described by German art historian and Hellenist Johann Joachim Winckelmann (1717-1768) as “the finest and most beautiful drawing in the world,” the well-preserved hydria is considered a masterpiece of the Athenian Meidias Painter, a specialist of the red-figure technique. The pot, just over 50cm in height, is richly decorated with mythological scenes, including finely drawn representations of the Dioskouri (Gemini twins) Castor and Pollux, the divine hero Heracles, and Aphrodite, the goddess of love and union.

Excavated in southern Italy, the hydria was purchased in 1764 by Sir William Hamilton (1730-1803), the British Commissioner to the Kingdom of Naples, and came into the possession of the British Museum in 1772. It quickly became a centerpiece in the museum’s galleries of ancient Greece and a style icon of the 18th and 19th centuries, influencing tapestries, furniture, and the antiquity-inspired ceramics of Josiah Wedgwood (1730-1795). It is the first time in 250 years that the Meidias Hydria has left London, on temporary loan to the “NoHMATA (Meanings): Personifications and Allegories from Antiquity to Today” exhibition at the Acropolis Museum, which runs until April 14, 2024. What is most intriguing about the Meidias Hydria is its link to the Parthenon Sculptures.

“Ηydriai of this kind – richly decorated, often with golden leaves – were not vases for everyday use,” notes Professor Nikolaos Chr. Stampolidis, General Director of the Acropolis Museum and curator of the exhibition. “These large water vessels would have been used in the various purification rituals and sacrifices, performed in honor of the patron goddess Athena, and are clearly depicted in a section of the 160-meter-long Parthenon frieze, carried on the shoulders by a group of young men in the Panathenaic Procession. Furthermore, the Meidias Hydria is almost contemporary with the Parthenon, which was completed just before the start of the Peloponnesian War in 431 BC, a lengthy conflict between Athens and Sparta.”

Indeed, art historians have noted that the “flying drapery” style of the female figures, as depicted on the hydria, was especially popular in the last quarter of the 5th century BC, in the aftermath of a devastating plague and the ongoing hardship of war; it was aptly described by Jerome J. Pollitt as “escapism in times of crisis.” – Duncan Howitt-Marshall

The walls of the exhibition space, colored deep purple, add drama and theatricality to the atmosphere and provide a uniform background against which the diversity of the exhibits is made even clearer. The thoughtful arrangement of the items – some mounted on walls or in cases, and others, including statues or vases, placed freely around the room – adds to the sense that you are exploring the gallery, not merely viewing it.

“The layout of the exhibition is intricately woven, allowing sections or subsections to seamlessly blend into one another, and we’ve also crafted diagonal visual escapes. For instance, in the Nature section, as you gaze upon the statue of Selene, your view naturally extends to Eros and Desire,” says Stampolidis.

As to whether the personification of concepts was influenced by the gender of the word describing them, the director says “That did occur frequently, but it was not a strict rule. For example, the two statues from the Archaeological Park of Ostia, representing Spring [a feminine word in both Ancient and Modern Greek] and Winter [a masculine word in both Ancient and Modern Greek] are both portrayed as young males. This reflects the artistic freedom that can weave together multiple layers of intellectual meaning, resonating not just with the artist’s vision but also with the society of that era.” – Xenia Georgiadou

The Many Lives of Karytsi Square

Nestled near Klafthmonos Square, charming Karytsi Square is a hidden gem. Named after the aristocratic Karykis family – prominent during the period of Ottoman rule and the original landowners of the area – the square is steeped in history. Between 1846-1849, the family financed the construction of Saint George Karytsis Church, erected on the site of a Byzantine church built by their ancestors in the 11th century. The church underwent renovations in 1900, around which time the square was created. Karytsi Square is home to “Parnassos,” the country’s oldest literary society, which has been continuously active since 1865. Its grand hall has welcomed figures such as Eleftherios Venizelos, Winston Churchill, and Sir Arthur Evans. During the Occupation in 1943-44, it served as a German military court.

The Mousouri Theater, opposite “Parnassos,” is one of the oldest theaters in Athens, in operation since 1934, and a platform for top Greek actors such as Elli Lambeti and Dimitris Horn.

The surrounding streets, Christou Lada and Anthimou Gazi, historically hosted print shops and newspaper offices, making the square a hub for members of the press. Today, Karytsi Square, at the heart of both old and new Athens, remains a beloved gathering place for locals. At Bless Me Father (2 Karitsi), patrons can enjoy specialty coffee, delectable dishes for sharing, and a selection of fine Greek wines. Glug Glug (5 Karitsi), a quaint wine bar, offers a curated list of Greek and international wines. The latest culinary addition to the square is Gloria Gati (6 Karitsi), an Italian restaurant famous for its signature dish: sumptuous stuffed handmade cacio e pepe ravioli. – Myrto Katsigera

Hot tables around Hilton

The inauguration of the architecturally iconic Hilton Athens in 1963 heralded a new chapter of cosmopolitan sophistication for Athens, raising the entire area’s social status. Such was its influence that claiming an address “behind the Hilton” became a symbol of prestige, even for those living several blocks away.

Recently, the Hilton neighborhood has been undergoing a renaissance, sparked by the comprehensive renovation of the Athens Conservatoire and the grand reopening of the revamped and expanded National Gallery – Alexandros Soutsos Museum. This resurgence is set to reach new heights with the hotel’s transformation into an opulent city resort, encompassing the Conrad Hotel, the Conrad and Waldorf Astoria Residences, and exclusive new retail, dining, and recreation areas.

The Hilton neighborhood already draws residents and visitors with its many excellent choices for dining: Vlassis (15 Meandrou), known for its mouthwatering seasonal dishes, has been a staple for Greek cuisine since 1983. Right next door, Aoritis (15 Meandrou) brings traditional Cretan cuisine to life with specialties such as tasty snails, and meats roasted over an open flame. For a blend of Greek creativity and cosmopolitan flair, Cookoovaya (2A Chatzigianni Mexi) serves mainly seafood dishes in an elegant setting. Make sure to reserve a table and enjoy savory pies from the wood-fired oven and innovative nose-to-tail fish recipes. For meat lovers, Vezene (1 Vrasida) offers a luxurious dining experience with exceptional cuts of meat. A bit further away, Goldie (35 Diocharous, open daily 12:00-17:00) offers freshly prepared, simple and affordable meals. – Nena Dimitriou