Oliver first visited Serifos in 1988 during a trip through the Cyclades. He has never fully left. Returning to the island several times, he eventually purchased a home in Hora, and in recent years, he has divided his time between Serifos and the United Kingdom. Nikos and Demosthenes grew up in Athens, but about ten years ago, they chose to return to their native Serifos and produce honey on its northern slopes. Others, such as Natasha, arrived to the island as visitors without having any roots or past connections. During the economic crisis, she left Athens, moved to Serifos, and started a new career by following her passion for ceramics, which she currently manufactures and sells in her shop.

On this island in the Western Cyclades, you’ll get to hear many anecdotes like these, particularly if you visit in the early spring or early autumn when people are more laid back and getting ready for the season. Houses are whitewashed, new shops set up chairs and tables, and roads are being paved. May and September provide a nostalgic view of the Cyclades, seemingly unchanged over time. This is exactly what Nikos and Nikoleta tell us while we talk in an alley in Hora. They visited Serifos last August and recall having to deal with the crowds. During their recent journey in May, they discovered a new island, one they could actually appreciate.

Beaches Without Sunbeds

Serifos attracts less visitors than other Cycladic islands, and its landscape has not been as heavily altered by developent as elsewhere. While the rugged, arid slopes in the south have seen an increase in construction, many places remain pristine. The same applies to its more than 70 beaches. Only two or three have shops or hotels nearby, but they are located further back, not right on the sand.

The only umbrellas and sunbeds one sees are those brought by visitors. Ganema, Psili Ammos, Vagia, Aghios Sostis, Karavi, and Livadakia are some of Serifos’ most well-known beaches, each with golden sand and tamarisk trees. Many others may require a bit of walking or driving on dirt roads, but they are well worth the effort during the peak tourist season. Maliadiko, like Kalogeros, requires a hike. To reach Kalo Ampeli, you’ll need to walk for about 20 minutes, and the same goes for Skala in the northern part of the island.

The Island’s Rich Mining History

Serifos’ mines have had a significant impact on its history. The first strikes in support of an eight-hour workday in Greece occurred here in 1916, and nearly every permanent resident has a story about an ancestor who worked hard in the tunnels. The mines began operations in 1869, principally for the extraction of iron, and closed in 1963. Since then, wagons, tunnels, loading bridges, and machinery have been left to the elements. As you drive around, you’ll notice the holes in the mountains, the installations at Koutalas, and the bridge at Megalo Livadi, which is now facing structural and erosion issues.

The residents’ association wasted no time. Together with the Laboratory of Local and Island Development of the University of the Aegean, the Urban Environment Laboratory of the National Technical University of Athens (NTUA), and the Hellenic Section of the International Committee for the Conservation of Industrial Heritage, they submitted a dossier to the international program “World Monuments Watch,” aiming to include the area of Megalo Livadi and Koutalas in the World Monuments Watch 2025 as an endangered monument site. Additionally, NTUA is studying the safety, access, and management conditions of the mining sites and facilities.

Traditional occupations are also in danger of disappearing, as fishermen Angelos and Vasilis are quick to point out. They are among the few traditional fishermen left on the island, and they tell us that fishing is a difficult job that requires sacrifices that younger people are unwilling to make.

The Hellenic Society for the Environment and Cultural Heritage shared the same goal of raising awareness about cultural heritage and the importance of balanced tourism development that takes into account profit, local quality of life, and environmental conservation. Following an application to Europa Nostra, three Cycladic islands—Sifnos, Folegandros, and Serifos—were added to the organization’s list of the seven most endangered monuments and cultural heritage sites in Europe for the year 2024. The announcement highlights, among other things, the “mountainous and rugged terrain that contributes to their unique character.”

Wise Architecture, Wild Landscapes

Serifos stands out from other islands for its sharp contrast between intelligent architecture and rugged nature. The island is barren and arid, with steep slopes above its beaches, and the sole road that encircles it shows its dramatic landscape to great effect—from the golden sandy beaches and abandoned mines in the southwest to the dry-stone walls that surround the little northern hamlet of Panagia.

The most iconic sight, however, is Hora, perched precipitously on a rock above Livadi’s port. Vehicles are not allowed in its narrow alleyways, which are a perfect example of Cycladic architecture. The compact, cubical, single-story homes are designed to suit the needs of a family without the appearance of riches or luxury. Serifos’ residents have historically built their homes close together, with thick walls and small windows, for protection against pirates and strong winds. While pirates are no longer a threat, the fierce Meltemi winds that blow through the Aegean in the summer persist. Unfortunately, in recent years, newer buildings constructed outside of traditional settlements and planning zones have disregarded this age-old wisdom, ignoring the island’s physical and climatic reality.

However, Hora’s buildings continue to withstand the winds, embodying the timeless stories of the Cycladic islands. These are stories about people who came to Serifos and fell in love with the island’s enduring gifts: the sun, the sea, and the ruggedly beautiful landscape that is dotted with the whitewashed dwellings of the scattered villages.

What to buy

Serifos is well-known for its superb organic honey, which is produced without large-scale intensive farming. The island’s bees collect nectar from wild lavender and thyme, resulting in a fragrant and distinctive honey. The island’s cooperative honey processing facility ensures quality through rigorous testing and analysis in collaboration with the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. Two prominent young beekeepers on Serifos are Demosthenes Diamantis (Melissona Diamanti) and Nikos Kokolakis (Frygana). Their honey is available in supermarkets throughout the island as well as select retailers in Athens.

Natasha Kalogeropoulou creates a variety of ceramics at Kerameio (Hora, Tel. (+30) 22810.516.69) using high-temperature clay fired at 1,240 degrees Celsius, ensuring that all of her creations are safe to use. Her shop carries a diverse and stylish variety of plates, cups, vases, lamps, and earrings.