Zarkadoulas

Step into Zarkadoulas and you feel as if you’ve entered an old Greek film. The décor is simple but the spirit is lively and authentic. This humble neighborhood taverna, tucked among the old refugee houses of Nikaia, proudly bears its specialty in its name: Zarkadoulas – The Little Crabs. People from across Athens come here for them, guided by word of mouth and Google Maps alike.

The juicy, charcoal-grilled crabs are brought to the table half-cleaned for easy eating, simply dressed with olive oil and lemon. The taramosalata, hand-cut fries, and signature marinated anchovies with carrot and Florina pepper sauce make perfect sides.

Kanaria

Charming and unassuming, Kanaria is a Moschato landmark and a quiet master of restraint. For decades, this little spot on the ground floor of a modest house has served only a handful of dishes, each one done with devotion. The stars of the menu are the large, sweet shrimp from Platamonas: grilled to perfection, lightly salted, and irresistibly juicy. You might find a few other fresh fish of the day, either fried or grilled – and that’s all you need.

Forget about fries; instead, you’ll be served one of the finest tomato salads in Athens, heaped with freshly grated tomato, alongside plump olives and creamy feta. It’s simplicity at its most satisfying.

Ionikos

Hidden in a quiet corner of Nikaia beside the small church of Aghios Georgios, Ionikos is the kind of place you discover by recommendation and then keep returning to. It’s a taverna that rewards loyalty with consistency, generosity, and flavor. The drive is well worth it. The kitchen turns out irresistible meze: sweet, tender fried shrimp meat; lightly fried calamari; melt-in-your-mouth octopus giouvetsi baked with pasta in tomato sauce; perfectly boiled wild greens; and smooth, aromatic fava.

The grilled sardines — the taverna’s signature dish — are a rare treat. Add to that the cozy neighborhood vibe and fair prices, and you’ve got yourself a favorite.

Margaro

A classic, historic, and truly authentic establishment. At the end of Chatzikyriakou Avenue, right before the entrance to the Naval Academy, time seems to slow down; maybe because, at Margaro, nothing ever goes wrong. The formula has been the same for decades: red mullets or goatfish fried to perfection, sweet shrimp fresh out of the hot pan, a classic Greek salad, and a cold beer. And there’s always someone at the table with a great story to tell.

Psarokastella

Its kitchen barely fits two people, but the dishes would put most restaurants to shame. Run by Maria Loukaki, who continues the tradition her father started in 1986, this little terrace taverna exudes quiet grace.

Her family’s fishing roots go back five generations, from Çeşme to Chios, and their fish still arrive fresh from the Aegean, grilled to perfection by her husband, Mr. Kostas. The menu reflects both simplicity and skill: bright red tomatoes with kritama (sea fennel) and capers, shrimp in a sweet-and-sour peppery sauce that demands bread for dipping, and octopus simmered in semi-sweet wine with a touch of Cretan vinegar – meltingly tender and deeply flavored. 

Zachos

Quick service, the atmosphere of an old koutouki (Greek taverna), and honest, delicious food. Here you’ll enjoy fresh langoustines and fried calamari, juicy monkfish baked in the oven, boiled vegetables and greens, fava, and hand-cut fries, all served in generous portions. Everything that leaves the kitchen, where a team of women cooks and grills with practiced ease, comes out irresistibly delicious. Mr. Thomas oversees the dining room with professionalism and genuine kindness, and before you leave, you’re treated to a little homemade dessert.

Argoura

At Argoura, the experience begins with a cup of hot fish soup, served in an enamel mug – a humble but telling gesture. Since 2010, owner Nikos Michail has turned this Tzitzifies taverna into a destination for seafood lovers in search of something beyond the ordinary. The décor feels like a memory: furniture from old dining rooms, vintage photos, and mementos from Michail’s village in Evia. From the open kitchen come beautifully executed dishes: thinly served litsa and kynigoi fish dressed with olive oil, lemon, oregano, or sour grape juice; mackerel and shrimp from Koilada; delicate sardine-wrapped vine leaves; and seafood pasta dishes. The carpaccios are superb. 

Thalassinos

Between the Onassis Foundation and the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center, Thalassinos is both a neighborhood favorite and a culinary landmark. Run by Dina Louki and her daughter Irini for more than 35 years, it’s a warm, ochre-toned space adorned with ceramic tiles and the scent of the sea. 

The kitchen turns out dish after dish of irresistible meze: fried mussels served with a walnut-and-garlic dip, fava topped with smoked eel, handmade greens pie, cuttlefish in its ink, and perfectly grilled fish sourced from Lemnos and Mytilene. The menu celebrates the bounty of the Aegean with understated confidence, and whether you drop in midweek or linger for a Sunday lunch, the hospitality feels timeless.

Thea Thalassa (“Sea View”)

Perched on the waterfront of Piraiki, Thea Thalassa lives up to its name, offering sweeping views across the Saronic Gulf to Salamina and Aegina. Owned by Giorgos Lempidakis, this well-loved taverna recently expanded into the neighboring space to welcome even more seafood devotees without losing any of its charm.

The menu is extensive and full of personality. Meze highlights include velvety taramosalata, house-pickled mackerel and marinated anchovies, sun-dried octopus with a hint of mastiha, fava from Schoinoussa, and a classic Athenian-style seafood salad. More adventurous diners can try a Caesar salad with crab and shrimp, or shrimp saganaki with ouzo and green curry, a clever twist that’s aromatic and subtly spicy.

Depending on the day’s catch you might find groupers, red porgies, red mullets or goatfish, along with fresh shrimp from Thermaikos and tender calamari, grilled just right. To accompany your meal, there’s an excellent selection of ouzo and tsipouro from across Greece (around forty in total) and several dozen bottled wines.

Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.