The Corfiot vineyards remain largely unknown. I first walked through them a few years ago, at a moment full of promise, when local wineries were finally gaining momentum and embracing a more outward-looking spirit. Before Venetian rule, Corfu was one vast vineyard, home to varieties such as Kakotrygis, Vertzamo, and Mavrorombola. Over time, however, those vineyards were uprooted—first to make way for olive groves, and later as agriculture gave way to tourism and rising land prices.

For a long time, the quality of Corfiot wine remained low — a telling example is bevanda, a diluted sour wine once drunk by the island’s poorest alongside sardines, herring, and shredded salt cod. Even as Corfu became known for its cosmopolitan charm, its wines lagged behind. In recent years, however, efforts to revive the local vineyard have laid the foundations for a promising future.

Kakotrygis, the Wine of the Phaeacians

Today, amidst the “jungle” of the Corfiot countryside, a mix of cultivated and untended vineyards, a handful of small wineries are working to preserve the Kakotrygis variety. Once central to the economy and daily life of farming families in Lefkimmi, this resilient variety has deep roots in Corfu’s past. Legends claim Kakotrygis was the wine offered to Odysseus by King Alcinous. Ancient sources affirm its prestige: in Deipnosophistae, Athenaeus praises its aging potential, noting it becomes increasingly enjoyable over time.

In Hellenica, Xenophon recounts how, in 373 BC, Spartan general Mnasippus landed in Corfu and his troops ransacked “the well-cultivated and planted countryside, as well as the grand estates and wine cellars,” growing so fond of the local aromatic wines that they refused to drink anything else. In his Statistical and Historical Notes on Corfu (1977), Stylianos Vlassopoulos mentions an annual production of around 120,000 barrels of wine.

Skopelitiko and Petrokoritho

To trace the evolution of Corfiot wine, we turned to Petros Tsirigotis, manager and sommelier of Campiello and Smoke Grill restaurants at Cook’s Club Hotel, who guided our tasting. An expert in local varieties, Tsirigotis is known for his skill in pairing them with the flavors of traditional Corfiot cuisine.

We discussed Kakotrygis, whose dense grape clusters and tough, woody stems – which give the variety its name (“kako” meaning “bad” and “trygis” meaning “harvest”) – make harvesting a challenge for viticulturists. Locally, it is also known as lianorago (“small-berried”), due to the tiny grapes it produces. It yields high-alcohol wines and is considered a versatile variety, capable of producing everything from sparkling to age-worthy wines. Kakotrygis has a pronounced aromatic profile, particularly on the palate, though it is a gastronomic white wine best enjoyed with food.

The other standout variety in Corfu’s vineyards is the red Skopelitiko. It offers a subtle nose with light fruit aromas, but its real appeal lies on the palate: light-bodied with pleasant tannins and good acidity, it is refreshing and easy to drink. For these reasons, it is especially well-suited for producing high-quality rosés.

The Future of Corfiot Wine

While winemaking in Corfu has a long history, can any of these or lesser-known varieties like Petrokoritho and Mandzavi, produce truly great wines? The potential is there, but unlocking it will require persistence, careful vineyard management, and precise winemaking. While the wines we tasted may not yet be collecting major awards, they are full of personality and certainly deserve a place at our table when visiting the island. Most are produced in such small quantities that they are rarely found outside Corfu.

Our Selection

Kakotrygis Barrel-Aged, Nicoluzo Estate

From a tiny winery in Ano Korakiana, Nicoluzo’s Kakotrygis is cultivated in a clearing surrounded by wild pear trees, cypresses, and centuries-old olive groves. The vast majority of their small production is exported. This Kakotrygis fits more the profile of a red, rather than a white wine—rich, full-bodied, and complex, with notes of honey, flowers, vanilla, and well-integrated oak.

Ano Korakiana, Tel. (+30) 694.377.7728

Robola Cuvée Spéciale, Theotoky Estate

At this historic estate in Giannades, we sampled Corfu’s take on Robola, the signature grape of neighboring Kefalonia. The Theotoky family, whose lineage includes Georgios Theotokis (four-time Prime Minister of Greece between 1899 and 1909), has been making wine here for five generations. Their Robola, grown in the Livadi Ropa vineyard, displays an impressive petrol aroma with a soft, lemony palate.

Ropa Valley, Giannades, Tel. (+30) 26610.515.24

Kakotrygis, Livadiotis Winery

Kakotrygis is certified as a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) wine in the greater Halikounas region. The Livadiotis family, in a rare move, uprooted olive trees to plant vineyards, establishing their winery here in 1989 and producing one of the island’s few PGI wines. High in alcohol and acidity, the wine is golden in hue with notes of lemon, honeycomb, fig, vanilla, raisin, and a faint tannic edge. “It’s a red wine pretending to be a white,” say the producers.

Halikounas, Tel. (+30) 693.686.8178

Kakotrygis-Skopelitiko Rosé, Borovino

Produced in the Stryftelia area of Lefkimmi, just 500 meters from the sea, this refreshing rosé is a delightful blend of Kakotrygis and Skopelitiko. Light and vibrant, with red fruit and caramel notes, it paired beautifully with our noumboulo fumicado, Corfu’s famed smoked pork.

Lefkimmi, Tel. (+30) 697.491.3285, 698.051.1235

Skopelitiko Rosé, Pontiglio

Pontiglio’s vineyard in Neochori, Lefkimmi, has been in the family since the mid-19th century. The modern winery was established in 2014 and now produces a soft, mellow rosé from Skopelitiko grapes. Expect subtle aromas of kumquat jam and honeycomb, a medium body, and a refreshing finish.

Neochori, Lefkimmi, Tel. (+30) 26620.228.66

Grammy Rosé, Grammenos Winery

Perched atop the mountain of Sinarades in Aerostato, Grammenos Winery cultivates the rare Petrokorithos grape on its western slopes. The result is a delicate, low-alcohol rosé with a luminous pink hue and intense muscat aromas; a graceful, expressive wine that speaks to the island’s hidden potential.

Sinarades, Tel. (+30) 694.612.4662

This article was previously published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.