Athens: The Last Refuge for the Dislocated Hip?
In which a world-wearied scribe rediscovers...
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The National Museum of Contemporary Art (51-53 Syngrou) is where contemporary art sparks thoughts and opens new ways of seeing the world. I’m especially fond of its film screenings – particularly in the summer, when the rooftop becomes an open-air cinema with views of the Acropolis.
Visiting the neighborhood of Anafiotika feels like slipping away to an island, but without ever leaving the city center. Its small white houses and winding alleys create a tiny Cycladic enclave right beneath the Acropolis.
Epta Martyres (3B Menechmou) is a warm, stylish wine bar with a great selection of wines and an ever-changing selection of small plates.
The NY Cheesecake at Cake in Kolonaki (15 Irodotou) has a perfect creaminess that makes it irresistible.
Founded in 1971 in the heart of Nea Smyrni, Record House (46 Omirou) is a must for vinyl lovers – rows of records waiting patiently to be discovered by the diligent browser.
Anna Karvounari
George Karapetis
Senior Fashion Editor, Vogue Greece
For a sweeping view of the city, head to the old quarry on Filopappou Hill – the metal structure anchored to the rock makes it easy to spot.
What I love about Athens is how quickly you can get out of the city and into a calm space. My favorite escape is to Evia: a perfect day trip full of nature and good food. Just outside Halkida, the village of Nerotrivia – with its babbling streams and stone houses – is my ideal retreat.
I start at Alexandrino Bistrot (69A Emmanouil Benaki) or Iznogood & Nephew (28 Aghias Zonis) for relaxed drinks and good music, and then follow wherever the mood of the night takes the group.
Melomakarona from Asimakopouloi (82 Harilaou Trikoupi), a century-old pâtisserie that’s been operating out of the same spot since 1915. Their chocolate treats, cakes, tarts and cookies are irresistible at any hour.
Begin at the new Comme des Garçons Pocket Store inside Attica (9 Panepistimiou), continue to Phāon (29 Lykavittou) for niche fragrances, and finish at Eleni Marneri Gallery (8 Pittakou), where the owner welcomes you with sweets and beautiful scents as you choose from jewelry and home decor pieces.
Eleftheria Tseliou
Dimitris Karampatakis
Owner, Eleftheria Tseliou Gallery
The National Archaeological Museum (44 28is Oktovriou) is a constant in my relationship with Athens; I never tire of visiting there. The Holy Monastery of Daphni (on Iera Odos in Haidari), just 11 km from the center, feels equally essential, with its 11th-century mosaics and a history that links the past with the present.
It’s impossible to think of Athens without the Parthenon. A walk beginning on Adrianou Street and winding along Dionysiou Areopagitou, whether you end up at the Acropolis Museum or one of the cafés further along the street, offers views that one never grows tired of.
From a long list of favorites, I’d single out Taverna tou Economou (32 Kidantidon), the newly opened Taverna ton Filon (Argous 66), and, for drinks, the fun Bluebird (4 Ipitou) and the beautifully atmospheric Koumkan (48 Harilaou Trikoupi).
Running out to the nearest kiosk just to buy a tin canister of Caprice, the classic chocolate-filled wafers.
Exploring the last remaining fabric stores in the historic center is always a thrill, as is a stop at Heroes (9 Aiolou), a concept store with unique handcrafted products by Greek designers. Among Greek brands, I love Stefania Frangista and Apoella; for jewelry, I recommend Lito, Yiannis Sergakis, Fanourakis, Danelian and Pentheroudakis.
Architect, Co-Founder of K-Studio
The pedestrianized route designed by Dimitris Pikionis leading up Filopappou Hill, with a necessary pause at the small Church of Aghios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris. Its singular stone paving, the park’s stillness, and the open views toward the city create an atmosphere perfectly suited for reflection, dreaming and inspiration.
A walk in Athens is a walk through time. Along a single route, layers of history converge: traces of the classical city, Roman and Byzantine footprints, and the lived-in feeling of a contemporary metropolis. Only here do all these eras breathe side by side.
Linou Soubasis & Co. (2 Melanthiou) for unpretentious Greek cooking and excellent wine. Surrounded by the city center’s vivid mix of tourists, side-street shops and after-dark energy, it’s where the true beat of Athens reveals itself.
No guilt at all: the egg and cheese brioche sandwich at Queen Bee (45 Patriarchou Ioakim), the bakery that our studio designed years ago in the heart of Kolonaki. It’s worth every last calorie.
Handmade pieces from Amaya Jewels (25A Xenokratous) for my wife and daughter. I take real joy in offering gifts shaped with care, finesse and a human touch, always carefully hand-crafted.
Melpomeni Maragkidou
Alex Karakatsanis
Journalist
Rebecca Camhi Gallery (9 Leonidou) in Metaxourgeio is my all-time favorite. Another true gem, but this one hidden away, is the garden café at the Numismatic Museum (12 Panepistimiou) – quietly wonderful and right in the heart of the city.
Piraeus is more than a ferry stop. Head up to Profitis Ilias and walk around behind the Veakeio Theater (13 Irakleiou) for what I promise are some of the most magical views of Athens from above.
Start at Pharaoh (54 Solomou), where every delicious dish deserves its reputation. Then dive into a purely Greek night at Archangelos Bar (1 Kimonos, Votanikos) for flirting, dancing to Greek music, and an underground vibe that feels both spontaneous and natural.
The Michalakopoulou food truck, parked somewhere around 40 Michalakopoulou Street. Chicken nuggets after a long night out are a rite of passage; to truly know this city, you must wait in line for food there at least once while tipsy.
I love discovering small Greek treasures. In Plaka, check out Kourbela’s clothes (109 Adrianou). For handmade jewelry, Aesthet (15 Valaoritou) and their Katerina Makriyianni earrings are a must. And make sure to stop in at Varvakeios Market: even if you aren’t shopping for meat or fish to cook, you can always get a great souvlaki at Volvi (24 Evripidou).
Chef, Culinary Director
An Club (13 Solomou) is where I’ve spent unforgettable nights – both as a spectator and as a band member. Check out their lineup if you love the underground scene. And be sure to take a stroll through the National Garden, a true oasis in the heart of the city.
Athens is vast and endlessly surprising; you never really finish discovering it. A recent find that I highly recommend is Farmamoo (on Dionisou in Nea Makri), a perfect nature escape with friendly farm animals that children, like my son, adore, and it’ just a short drive from the city center.
I’m serious about food, so I stick to places that I trust. My go-tos include Akra (12 Aminta) for its caramel-milk tart; Ex Machina (34 Empedokleous) for its Orphan Pasta; Taratsa Athens (60 Mitropoleos) for great kebab; and The Bar in Front of the Bar (1 Petraki) for exceptional cocktails.
Mangal (12 Solomou) in Exarchia – authentic Kurdish and Turkish flavors you simply can’t stop eating. Pure gastronomic munchies.
I love The Real Intellectuals (9 Pallados) for motorcycle gear – helmets, accessories, biker-culture clothing. And Karavan (10 Skoufou), a colorful universe of bold prints, saturated hues and always-creative window displays.
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