Lychnarakia, or kalitsounia, are classic Cretan sweet cheese pastries and part of a wider family of seasonal Aegean pastries traditionally prepared in spring, when fresh cheeses are at their best. Resembling small open tarts, they are closely related to Santorini’s melitinia and the cheese pies – or “tsibita” – of Tinos, though the Cretan version typically features a slightly thicker pastry and fewer decorative folds around the edges.
Traditionally served at festive gatherings and holiday tables, they are filled with fresh mizithra cheese and lightly scented with cinnamon. If you can find clean, untreated lemon leaves, place them over the warm pastries as soon as they come out of the oven for an authentic finishing touch. The leaves also make a beautiful garnish for serving.
Method
Dough
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together all the dough ingredients except the flour until well combined.
- Gradually add the flour, kneading with the dough hook until you have a soft, pliable dough. You may not need to use all the flour.
- Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest for 20-30 minutes.
Filling
- In a bowl, mix together all the filling ingredients until evenly incorporated.
Kalitsounia
- Lightly flour your work surface and divide the dough into 4-5 portions.
- Roll out each portion into a thin sheet, about 1 cm thick. Using a 6 cm round cutter – or a glass of similar size – cut out circles of dough. You should have around 20 discs in total.
- Place a generous spoonful of filling in the center of each disc, leaving a small border around the edge.
- Lift the dough border around the filling and pinch it decoratively with your fingers to form the pastries’ characteristic shape. The more folds and pinches you make, the more traditional and decorative the kalitsounia will appear.
Bake
- Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
- Line one or two baking trays with parchment paper and arrange the kalitsounia on them.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and milk, then brush the pastries evenly with the mixture.
- Sprinkle with cinnamon and sesame seeds, if using.
- Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until golden brown.
- As soon as they come out of the oven, cover the warm kalitsounia with lemon leaves or lightly sprinkle them with orange blossom water. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel and allow them to cool completely so they absorb the aromas.
Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.
For the dough
- 200 ml olive oil
- 300 ml fresh whole milk
- 250 g sugar
- 4 eggs
- 2 tbsp baking powder
- Zest of 1 lemon
- About 1 kg all-purpose flour
For the filling
- 1.5 kg soft, unsalted full-fat mizithra cheese, well drained
- 3 eggs
- 350 g sugar
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 3 tbsp cornstarch
For brushing and topping
- 3 egg yolks
- 3 tbsp fresh whole milk
- A little sesame seeds (optional)
- A little ground cinnamon
- A few untreated lemon leaves, washed and dried, or a little orange blossom water