I once traveled with some colleagues through the Hania region of Crete, traversing the whole area, end to end, for days. At one point, we crossed the Askyfou Plateau in search of the village of Ammoudari and Ieronimos Gialedakis, one of the last bootmakers who specialize in "stivania" – traditional Cretan leather boots. It wasn't until nightfall that we finally found ourselves at his workshop. “Bring glasses and chairs for the girls,” Gialedakis told his friends who were gathered, drinking “tsikoudia,” a Cretan variety of pomace brandy. After we raised our glasses in a happy toast, he began telling us why the boots he made were so special, how they're usually black but can occasionally be white, and how they're always only made to order, tailored to each foot. He asked me to remove my shoes so he could show me how to take proper foot measurements. Once he'd done this, I seized on the opportunity; I ordered a pair of my own. It had been a long time since I'd felt such joy: in a few short days, I would have stivania of my own, boots that would fit my feet, and my feet only!