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Nikos Chandolias was born and bred… on bread, in the northern Greek town of Katerini. His childhood memories revolve around his dad’s bakery – and around the tsoureki that he would make, which, to this day, Nikos considers to be the best there ever was. Although he does admit to being biased.
Last spring, he created a new Instagram account, @frommydadsbakery, to honor his dad’s legacy. He calls it his “baking journal,” posting recipes that combine tradition with new techniques as he experiments with contemporary, all-natural ingredients and flavors in the kitchen of his London apartment.
Almost everything he bakes is made with sourdough (naturally-leavened dough, which rises as a result of the gas produced when the grain ferments), and contains something unexpected for color and flavor, like cabbage, tomato juice, or purple carrots.
The first photo on his feed, however, is one of his dad at the bakery, holding a tray full of freshly baked tsoureki.
© Nikos Chandolias
© Nikos Chandolias
© Nikos Chandolias
Traditional tsoureki, like the ones Nikos’ dad would make, are sweet, brown, stringy, and flavored with mahleb and mastic (you can find a traditional recipe here). Today, Nikos is sharing a recipe for one that looks quite different, but which still captures the essence of the sweet bread.
“Greek Easter is associated with many traditions, but the undeniable winner of the customs is the tsoureki-making on Holy Thursday. Tsoureki for me is all about the senses of smell and taste – we all experience them differently as they can vividly trigger so many different personal memories,” he explains.
© Nikos Chandolias
So what inspired him to make a pink and green tsoureki?
“Easter for me signifies the beginning of a new and sunnier season,” he says. “Usually, the weather turns warmer, trees begin to show up their first green leaves, and plants start to bloom. The streets are filled with almond and cherry trees’ pink blossoms and the parks begin to turn greener and greener as days pass. So, this tsoureki’s flavor and color combination is an homage to nature’s awakening at spring.”
It’s not the easiest tsoureki recipe you’ll find (you’ll need patience and a precise kitchen scale), but the result might be the prettiest.
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Methodology for the levain (prepare the night before):
Methodology for the roux (prepare an hour before start kneading the dough): Roux is basically the same as yudane, which is Japanese or just like the Chinese tangzhong. This method originates in Asia and what it achieves is to pre-gelatinize the starches in the flour, allowing them to absorb more water, leading to a more tender and chewy result.
Methodology for the final dough: For this recipe, you will need to prepare two doughs, one enriched with matcha tea powder and one with fresh raspberry juice. In order to prepare the doughs, you will need to follow the following steps twice.
Tsoureki Levain
Tsoureki Roux
Tsoureki Raspberry Dough
Tsoureki Matcha Dough
* The grams in this recipe will give you two doughs of 1kg each.
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