The first sight that greets visitors to this small Cycladic island, where according to myth Dionysus hid Ariadne from Theseus, is Stavros, the port and main village. As the ferry ramp comes down, Donoussa’s one and only bar – the famous Skantzohiros, housed in a stone building with a wooden pergola – comes into view on the hillside across the harbor. Next door is Avli restaurant, and a little farther along is the traditional taverna and grocery store To Kyma, also known as “Tsiftis,” known for its excellent home-style cooked dishes. At the other end of the beach is Iliovasilema, renowned for its goat dishes.

Arriving at the port of Stavros, when the weather is not stirring up the shores of Donoussa, brings an immediate sense of calm. Traditional fishing boats, clustered together in the island’s small bay, await the Feast of the Holy Cross, when they are blessed in accordance with local custom.

On an island where festivals are few and far between – and two of its three annual festivals take place in September – each inevitably holds a special place in local life.

The Feast of the Holy Cross is perhaps the best known on the island. On the day before, September 13, following vespers and a serving of patatato, a traditional meat-and-potato, island songs and dances bring locals and visitors together on the steps in front of Skantzohiros, where the festivities continue until morning.

On the day of the Feast, the celebration continues in front of Enalia pastry shop and Gialo Gialo fish taverna. The music – featuring violins, lute and tsambouna, the traditional Cycladic bagpipe –  starts at around 10 p.m. and, once again, the dancing carries on until morning.

September 17: Everyone Heads to Mersini

Over the following days, the island gradually begins to empty. Those with the time and patience to stay for one more special celebration gather at the windswept chapel of Aghia Sofia in Mersini on the morning of September 17 for a church service, followed by boiled meat and bread. Young and old then make their way down to the spring for the festivities, a gathering that islanders look forward to every year.

Beneath the light-green leaves of the plane tree, people seem more cheerful and relaxed than on other autumn days. The melodies of the lute and violin carry through the air without sound systems or amplifiers, as dancers form winding circles around the small square by the spring. 

If I were ever to imagine a Dionyssian celebration, it would be this one, at the spring above Livadi on Donoussa.

A Rendezvous for Runners

People love Donoussa not only for its crystal-clear waters and sandy beaches, but also for its sense of community. Over the years, locals and loyal summer visitors have organized all kinds of activities, from eggplant-salad competitions and volleyball tournaments to treasure hunts and the legendary Donousso-vision. There are also theater performances, workshops, film screenings and radio shows. This active and welcoming community is one of the things that sets the island apart. A trip outside the peak season offers a chance to experience it firsthand.

Every October, the Donoussa Trail Running event takes place along the island’s well-maintained trails. It includes a 9-kilometer mountain race and a longer 20-kilometer route. Now in its eighth year, the event will once again bring together visiting athletes and many locals. Throughout the rest of the year, runners can often be spotted training on the trails that crisscross Donoussa’s low mountains.

Vardia, the island’s highest peak, rises to 385 meters, but the race route crosses Papas, its second-highest summit, at 383 meters. From here, you can look out over Kalotaritissa, one of the island’s most beautiful settlements, which retains a sense of tranquility even during the busiest months. Its bay embraces three beaches, with the rocky islet of Skoulonisi just offshore, while near the coast is O Mitsos taverna, famous for its burgers.

Once August is over, Greece’s island destinations seem to slip from the tourist radar. For those willing to venture beyond the usual tourist season, however, an autumn escape to Donousssa offers experiences that can feel like a glimpse into another era, when places like this seemed more authentic, untouched and unspoiled.